The New Technical Educator Volume 6; An Encyclopaedia of Technical Education (Paperback)

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1895 Excerpt: ... give you all that is necessary with the foregoing to enable yon to make an ordinary boot or shoe, as a "welt," "pump," or "sew-round," ere I take you to a few of the higher branches of the gentle craft. Pumps and Sew-rounds.--Boots and shoes for very light wear, slippers, and ladies' morning, dressing, evening, or Court shoes, are made by a process different from that used for ordinary boots very promptly put on by preparing the seat or heel for it. The pumps are made in a similar fashion, only the seat is made in such a way that n heel can be built up on it, and this from a " top-piece, or spring heel," to one of any height desired. All the above are made inside out and turned, or what is called second lasted, after they are sewn; in a sew-round, all round; in a pump, the fore-part and waist only. To proceed to make a pair of these shoes, well wet the soles, buff off the grain, flesh the back, and cut them down to make a pair. Let them be as Fig. 117. Now trim off to the shape of the hist, as the outside edge of this figure. If a wooden heel is going to be used, the heel of the sole at c, c, c must be cut exactly to the shape and size of the heel about to be used; but in the case of a sew-round this should be shaped larger. It is done by trimming it up to the last, but at the same time leaving about $ in. on all round the part to form the heel. When it is a leather-built heel, this portion need not have anything taken off, or it may be just rounded up a little. In cither case, take off the last, and cut the other to it on a board. If a sew-round, draw two lines right round, as D, D, D. The distance from the edge of the first should be about the substance of the sole: this is a very good guide. The second can be the ...