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Watchmakers: The Masters of Art Horology gathers the work of the most celebrated independent watchmakers in the world. Thirteen artisans, each a legend in the realm of haute horlogerie, tell their stories, describing the traditional working methods and prized watches upon which their reputations have been built. Photographs of the masters in their workshops bring their stories to life, along with detailed sketches and images of their watches in all their brilliant intricacy. Watchmakers also features insightful text from other leading figures of the independent watchmaking world, including Aurel Bacs of the Fondation Haute Horlogerie and Nicholas Foulkes, writer for Vanity Fair, The Telegraph and GQ, and author of the only authorised biography of Patek Philippe.
Despite the functional obsolescence of the mechanical wristwatch (our phones and computers tell more accurate time) the early 21st Century has seen a boom in the development, production, and appreciation of all things horological. Whether it is presented to the collector as an alternative investment, as a feat of micro-mechanical technology, or as a showcase of artisanal mastery, the mechanical wristwatch has never possessed more forms, functions or facets than it does today. The Wristwatch Handbook is written from the epicentre of a renaissance, a place in time between the Quartz revolution and the rise of the smart device - where the mechanical wristwatch is the antidote to the microprocessor and the permanent buzz of your inbox. From the multi-axis tourbillion, to the split-second chronograph, to the sidereal sky chart, The Wristwatch Handbook covers it all and does so with more than 470 rich illustrations from over 90 of the World's leading brands.The book is separated into two sections. The first section provides the reader with a comprehensive understanding of the mechanical movement.Its chapters explore power, transmission, distribution and regulation illustrating the basic concepts before considering the innovation and complexity that takes place further toward the cutting edge. From the fifty-day power reserve, to the constant force mechanism, and the 1,000Hz mechanical escapement, section 1 will allow the reader to understand and appreciate what is happening beneath the dial of their watch. Section two allows the reader to take this understanding and apply it to the vast range of complications (functions) that exist in modern horology. Each chapter showcases a distinct category of complication. For example, the regatta timer, pulsometer, and monopusher chronograph join a host of others in a chapter entitled 'Recording Lapses of Time'; The power reserve indicator, dynamograph, and crown position indicator are featured in a chapter for 'Power and Performance Indication'; The moon phase indicator, annual calendar, and planetarium can be found in the 'Astronomical Complications' chapter.Once the functional categories are exhausted, the final three chapters explore whimsical complications that have little regard for practical function, novelty time indication, and the 'super-complicated' watch - a rare breed of timepiece that houses an intimidating host of complications featured throughout the book. Upon completion of The Wristwatch Handbook the reader will be able to identify even the most exotic complication from across the room, and be able to share their appreciation and understanding of what makes it so useful and compelling. The Wristwatch Handbook is "brand agnostic", using only those watches that most aptly illustrate the given subject-matter. As a consequence the book places equal emphasis on the classic and the cutting edge, on watches produced in large volume or exclusive runs, by industry-leading technology or at the hand of a master. In doing so the book provides an unparalleled range of watches from over 90 brands, allowing the reader to determine for themselves which brands, complications, and styles they will build their collection from.
The tenth anniversary edition of the dramatic human story of an epic scientific quest: the search for the solution of how to calculate longitude and the unlikely triumph of an English genius. With a new Foreword by the celebrated astronaut Neil Armstrong. `Sobel has done the impossible and made horology sexy - no mean feat' New Scientist Anyone alive in the 18th century would have known that `the longitude problem' was the thorniest scientific dilemma of the day - and had been for centuries. Lacking the ability to measure their longitude, sailors throughout the great ages of exploration had been literally lost at sea as soon as they lost sight of land. Thousands of lives, and the increasing fortunes of nations, hung on a resolution. The quest for a solution had occupied scientists and their patrons for the better part of two centuries when, in 1714, Parliament upped the ante by offering a king's ransom (GBP20,000) to anyone whose method or device proved successful. Countless quacks weighed in with preposterous suggestions. The scientific establishment throughout Europe - from Galileo to Sir Isaac Newton - had mapped the heavens in both hemispheres in its certain pursuit of a celestial answer. In stark contrast, one man, John Harrison, dared to imagine a mechanical solution. Full of heroism and chicanery, brilliance and the absurd, LONGITUDE is also a fascinating brief history of astronomy, navigation and clockmaking.
First written by the definitive expert in 1957, Watch Repair for Beginners is the ideal book for anyone who wants to know how to fix their own watch, or take up watch repair as a hobby. Learn what horology is; the basics of watch and clock repairing; the mechanics of a clock; how the wheels work; the difference between an automatic watch, a stop watch, and a chronograph; and so much more. The table of contents includes: Wheel work of pendulum clocks Gearing Escapements for Balance Wheel Timepieces Striking Mechanisms Stop Watches and Chronographs Calendar Mechanisms And more! With detailed black-and-white illustrations, this timeless classic is a must-have addition to any horology lover's collection.
Three years ago, car designer Olivier Gamiette became fascinated with how watches work and began drawing them in his spare time. He started to educate himself on the different elements that watches possess and how to define their proportions. His goal was to not only draw credible and realistic watches, but also to have them tell time in ways he had never seen before. Thirty-four extraordinary concept watch designs later, Soon presents Gamiette's creations in all their 3D glory. Meet Sentinelle with its six rotating glass cylinders, - the futuristic Celerity with horn-like propellers, and Sublissime with its mesmerizing crisscrossing bands. You can discover these timepieces and the magic each one holds through Gamiette's thoughtful watch descriptions, in-depth design tutorials, and, above all, his conceptual masterpieces.
How can you tell a fake watch from a real one? Where are fakes made? What grades of quality can one find among so-called "replicas"? How can one buy a watch on the internet? How can one avoid fraudulent copies? These are just some of the questions to which any wristwatch enthusiast needs to find answers in an era when counterfeiting luxury products has become an industry in its own right. This book, of which the greater part is devoted to the most prestigious watch brands, provides readers with vital information on identifying fakes. It aims to ensure that buying a watch from a private individual, from a professional or on the internet (the global hub for the sale of fake watches) does not turn out to be a nightmare! Illustrated with over 500 photos, the differences between original and counterfeit models are exposed in detail (mechanisms, dials, bracelets, etc.). To our knowledge, no other work of this type has been published to date, doubtless due to the explosive nature of this fascinating topic.
Showcasing the latest masterpieces from leading manufacturers, this is the most comprehensive and current guide on watches available.
With a foreword from Jean-Marie Schaller, founder and creative director of Louis Moinet, this book introduces some of the most elegant watches the horological world has to offer, including several one-of-a-kind pieces that have never before appeared in print. Many of these ateliers handcraft both the watches and their complicated mechanical movements in-house. The level of expertise and craftsmanship involved is truly dazzling. Featuring such stunning timepieces as the 15.48 Driver Watch, the Andreas Strehler Time Shadow and the Antoine Preziuso Chronometer, Tourbillon of Tourbillons, this expertly curated collection of watch profiles will catch the eye of any true enthusiast. Steve Huyton looks beyond the price tag, featuring affordable options of particular artistic merit as well as pieces from the luxury end of the scale. Discover the hidden gems of the watchmaking business - 60 independent artisans counted among the finest makers in the world. Includes the work of: Hajime Asaoka, Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk), Aaron Becsei, Vincent Calabrese, Konstantin Chaykin, Bernhard Lederer (BLU), Masahiro Kikuno, Vianney Halter, Antoine Preziuso and Andreas Strehler, among others.
The history of Rolex is inextricably linked to its founder Hans Wilsdorf, who took the first steps in the world of Swiss watchmaking as he dreamed about a timepiece that could be worn around the wrist. This experimental research led Rolex to achieve its highest goals in both technological innovation and in the use of the finest materials alone. Its models have been photographed on the wrists of political leaders, sports champions, and film and fashion celebrities, transforming each Rolex into a fully-fledged status symbol, a synonym of elegance and precision. Including essays with a historical and technical slant, in-depth descriptions of the most representative pieces and a brief glossary, the pages in this book sparkle with golden hands, diamond-studded dials and patent-leather watchbands, illustrated in period photographs and macro-detail. The volume ends with a chapter dedicated to the most amazing auctions that saw the sale of the Geneva-based company's vintage watches. (Reprinting 10.02.2020)
Paul Newman wore his Daytona Rolex every single day for 35 years until his death in 2008. The iconic timepiece, probably the single most sought-after watch in the world, is now in the possession of his daughter Clea, who wears it every day in his memory. Franklin Roosevelt wore an elegant gold Tiffany watch, gifted to him by a friend on his birthday, to the famous Yalta Conference where he shook the hands of Joseph Stalin and Winston Churchill. JFK's Omega worn to his presidential inauguration, Ralph Lauren's watch purchased from Andy Warhol's personal collection, Sir Edmund Hillary's Rolex worn during the first-ever summit of Mt. Everest...these and many more compose the stories of the world's most coveted watches captured in A Man and His Watch. Matthew Hranek, a watch collector and NYC men's style fixture, has travelled the world conducting firsthand interviews and diving into exclusive collections to gather the never-before- told stories of 76 watches, complete with stunning original photography of every single piece.
For Neophytes - to learn the fundamentals, and appreciate the main features of a model, its qualities and weaknesses. For amateurs - to create the desire to know more about fine watches. For connoisseurs - to revise important concepts and even increase their knowledge. This new edition includes new illustrations. What is a beautiful watch? How do you make a good choice? The Magic of Watches explains how and why these little objects are so precious, fascinating and exciting. The book presents paradoxes: why a one-million-dollar watch might be less precise and more fragile than one that costs 15 dollars. It comes back to the origins of the measurement of time: how did we go from the water clock to the wristwatch? The book goes on to technique: how does a mechanical movement work? How does a quartz one work?; delves into details: what is a 'complication' and when do we speak about 'chronometer'?; showcases art: how do we enamel a dial? The Magic of Watches is unique: it focuses in detail on the basics in order to understand and love watches better.
Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver: this singular name belongs to one of the most original professional watches of the 1960s, combining an unparalleled number of functions with a timeless design. Created in 1961, this chronograph was produced for around ten years under several brand names, through a partnership between the Swiss company NIVADA SA and the American firm CROTON WATCH CO. This led to some of its dials bearing probably the most complicated name in watchmaking history: CROTON NIVADA GRENCHEN Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. Thanks to the authors' trademark rigorous methodology, the signature of the 'ONLY' reference works, this book reveals the incredible diversity of the Chronomaster models. It is intended both as an initiation for connoisseurs of exceptional watches and as a reference guide for collectors. This legendary watch will doubtless thus regain the place it deserves among the most desirable 1960s chronographs.
Twentieth century Russian wristwatches are too costly for many native buyers, but they are still inexpensive for Western Collectors, and are becoming extremely popular. Watch faces commemorate all the great moments of Russian and Soviet history-from Yuri Gagarin's space flight to the Summit meeting between Gorbachev and George Bush-and celebrate Russian culture with images of native costumes from Chechnya to the Ukraine. Collectors have long clamored for a definitive reference and this new book will satisfy even the most avid enthusiast, with photographs of over 500 watches manufactured in Russia and the USSR during the second half of this century, and explanations of their styles, workings, and manufacturers. Poljot, Wostok, and Slava wristwatches are covered, along with a sampling of pocket watches, deck watches, and marine chronometers. This book is a must for serious collectors in the growing field of Russian timekeepers.
Buying a previously owned watch can be a risky purchase. Fake watches are legion on the internet and unscrupulous vendors are increasingly using this market place to sell their fraudulent products. Few second-hand watch websites call upon true experts and purchases are increasingly made at the buyer's risk. How to tell a true watch from a fake? That is exactly what you will discover in this volume covering the main luxury watch brands, and above all providing specific documentation on the counterfeit market - which is constantly evolving and perpetually on the lookout for the perfect fake watch. Enhanced knowledge of watchmaking and its flagship brands along with an understanding of the fake market will help you make the right decisions when buying a watch.
In an unscientific era when maps were rarities, how did ancient Romans envisage their far flung empire? This was done by various means for certain, including with the aid of an ingenious type of portable sundial that has barely attracted notice. As the Romans understood before the first century BCE, to track the passage of the sun across the sky hour-by-hour one needed to know one's latitude and the time of year, and that, furthermore, sundials did not have to be fixed objects. These portable instruments, crafted in bronze, were adjustable for the changes of latitude to be expected on long journeys-say, for instance, from Britain to Spain, or from Alexandria to Rome, or even on a Mediterranean tour. For convenient reference, these sundials incorporated lists of twenty to thirty names of cities or regions, each with its specific latitude. One of the insights of Roman Portable Sundials is that the choice of locations offers unique clues to the mental world-map and self-identity of individuals able to visualize Rome's vast empire latitudinally. The sixteen such sundials known to date share common features but designers also vied to create enhancements. Comparison with modern calculations shows that often the latitudes listed are incorrect, in which case the sundial may not perform at its best. But then the nature of Romans' time-consciousness (or lack of it) must be taken into consideration. Richard Talbert suspects that owners might prize these sundials not so much for practical use but rather as prestige objects attesting to scientific awareness as well as imperial mastery of time and space. In retrospect, they may be seen as Roman precursors to comparable Islamic and European instruments from the Middle Ages onwards, and even to today's luxury watches which display eye-catching proof of their purchasers' wealth, sophistication, and cosmopolitanism. Richly enhanced with detailed photographs, line drawings, maps, a gazetteer, and a table of latitudes and locations, Roman Portable Sundials brings these overlooked gadgets out of the shadows at last to reveal their hitherto untapped layers of meaning.
The Jurgensen Dynasty represents four generations of extraordinary watchmakers working in two countries: Denmark and Switzerland. Urban Jurgensen (1776-1830) is perhaps the most renowned member of the family. He was among the most innovative personalities of the Danish Golden Age and internationally one of the most prominent watchmakers of his time. His contributions to the development of horology were significant and he was one of the first watchmakers and inventors to be recognised by the scientific establishment with his innovations in technology and science earning him a place in the Royal Danish Academy of science. In this manner, the book presents a broader cultural aspect of Danish history than the title at first suggests. It is a document of the art of watch-making, as it is still exercised by the continuing production of Urban Jurgensen & Sonner timepieces today.
The art of tracking time has been evidenced for over 300 years in the Black Forest area of Germany. Cuckoo and singing bird clocks, early glass bell, trumpeter, Jockele, animation, and picture frame clocks all have in the Black Forest area by skilled clockmakers who have transformed the function of time into a true form of art through their clocks. Rick Ortenburger's important new study traces the development of this fascinating Black Forest clock industry between about 1700 and 1930. He provides useful information that will meet the collectors' need and increase the appreciation of the beautiful craft these clocks represent. Photographs in color and black and white of 600 different examples make the industry's evolution from early cottage farm houses to the later development of factories come to life.
All of the precise and delicate gears and levers in a clock can appear dizzying to the amateur, but this guide, with its wonderfully detailed diagrams, can clear things up. It covers the theory behind clock movement and design, including the particulars of escapements, pendulums, balance wheels, and even the sheet music for popular chimes. The American striking clock, the 400-day clock, and the alarm clock receive special attention. The in-depth information, including explanations of clock repairing terminology and details on the tools, materials, and supplies that are needed for success, will benefit even skilled enthusiasts.
Twenty-eight years after its first publication, the best-selling "Watchmaking" continues to inspire and encourage the art of watchmaking, especially among new generations of enthusiasts. As a supreme master of his art, George Daniels' advice is constantly sought by both students and watch repairers, his understanding of the problems that can beset the would-be watchmaker, especially in an age of mass production, and his expert knowledge of the history of watchmaking being second to none. Here, the making of the precision timekeeper is described step by step and illustrated at each stage with line drawings and brief explanatory captions. The text is easy to follow and care has been taken to avoid complicated technical descriptions. As Daniels is particularly interested in the development of the escapement - many are described in this book, several of his own design - the reader is encouraged to explore this aspect of watchmaking in even greater detail.This classic handbook still remains indispensable to generations of watchmakers and repairers, and also provides a fascinating insight to the enthusiast and watch-collector who, until its publication, had often been able only to admire the superb craftsmanship of a fine watch without understanding how it works.
The Marine Chronometers at Greenwich is the fifth, and largest, of the distinguished series of catalogues of instruments in the collections of the National Maritime Museum. Housed at the Royal Observatory Greenwich - the 'home of time' and the Prime Meridian of the world - this extraordinary collection, which includes the celebrated marine timekeepers by John Harrison (1693-1776), is generally considered to be the finest of its kind in existence. The book is however much more than just a catalogue, and includes an accessible and engaging history of the chronometer, revealing why these instruments were important in our scientific and cultural history, and explaining, in simple terms, how they worked and were used. A comprehensive Glossary and Bibliography are included to ensure any technicalities are explained and that the reader has suggestions for useful 'further reading'. Over 480 photographs and illustrations, including many fine macro-photographs and line drawings, illustrate the 'jewel-like' beauty of the chronometer's construction and explain the function and subtleties of its mechanism. A chapter on 'How the Chronometer was Made', describes the fine sub-division of labour used to create these special machines, from bare metal, right up to delivery on board ship, and brief biographies of the makers tell the human story behind this important nineteenth-century industry. Another chapter, 'The Evolution of the Chronometer', aimed at collectors, historians and curators, provides clearly structured information on assessing and dating the chronometer, something many find difficult. And, for the dedicated specialist, there is extensive tabulated data on the technical structure of this important collection, a unique resource for future research.
The highly evocative Flightmaster name was first mentioned by OMEGA in 1956-57, but it was not until the late 1960s that it was used to designate an incomparable watch, initially intended for aircraft pilots. At the time, it was regarded as the watch industry equivalent of the Swiss army knife, meaning the ultimate professional instrument. The aesthetically and technically remarkable OMEGA Flightmaster symbolises a period rich in technological and design breakthroughs. Produced over a short period and relatively little known until now, it nonetheless enjoyed exceptional development and an outstanding destiny, notably on the wrist of Soviet cosmonauts in the 1970s. Revealing the entirely unknown and remarkably rich story for the first time, and based on their own methodology, the authors of the successful Moonwatch Only book dedicated to the OMEGA Speedmaster, provide a comprehensive account of the many variations and evolutions of the different Flightmaster models. The result is an essential reference work for all passionate brand enthusiasts and collectors.
Stan Bray introduces the fascinating world of horology to the complete beginner. This book explains the terminology of the clockmaker and provides general details of clock construction including layout of wheels and escarpments, a number of the latter being described. Making of wheels, pinions, escarpments, plates, pendulums, weights, cases, hands and faces is described. The necessary tools and equipment are described with details of how to make specialized items and choice of most suitable materials for their construction.
One of George Daniels's central contributions to horology is his co-axial escapement. Having observed that the dominant lever escapement begins to change its rate after a year or two -- a disturbance caused by the sliding action of the impulse elements of the escapement -- Daniels set about developing a mechanism that avoided this problem. The result of his efforts was the co-axial escapement, a mechanism in which he sought to combine the strengths and eliminate the deficiencies of existing watch escapements, the lever escapement foremost among them. First devised in 1977, today it remains largely the same as fitted in watches of Daniels's own manufacture, as well as those of several wrist-watch manufacturers. This book explains the action of the escapement in terms accessible to both expert and layman, and is accompanied by a series of detailed line drawings.
The pursuit of excellence is reflected in Audemars Piguet's prestigious models, painstakingly crafted by artisans for over 130 years. Founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet, the manufacturing headquarters of Audemars Piguet are nestled in the Joux Valley in Switzerland. For more than a century, this prestigious company has held a unique position in the world of high quality watch making: its expertise, creativity, and state-of-the-art technology lie behind Audemars Piguet's luxurious and innovative watches. At the turn of the twentieth century, the factory employed more than seventy craftsmen, whose mastery and excellent grasp of the changing times enabled the development of traditional pieces, and the production of revolutionary watches, both of the highest quality. These include the slimline jeweled watches for women in the Art Deco era, chronographs in the Forties, the first perpetual calendar watch in 1957, the famous Royal Oak-the first high-end sports watch-in 1972, and the ultramodern Millenary MC12 in 2008. The mechanisms, the meticulous processes by which they are developed, and their technical and stylistic inventions reveal the history of a company that combines audacity, ingenuity, and luxury.
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