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Romance, love and courtship are as universal as the precious jewels they inspire, objects which express deep affection for a loved one and eternal commitment. Wedding traditions have evolved over thousands of years and are based on blessing the couple with good luck and good wishes for unity, happiness and prosperity. The ring is the most personal of all jewels, its endless circular form symbolising the everlasting union of two people. The tradition of giving a betrothal or wedding ring as a promise of marriage goes back to ancient Rome and the ring was believed to have a direct link to the heart when worn on the ring finger of the left hand. It was not until the 15th century that diamond rings were primarily associated with marriage, but from the earliest times rubies or garnets were emblems of passionate love, diamonds or rock crystals symbolised virtue and constancy, sapphires denoted eternal love and emeralds desire and hope. Decorative motifs such as clasped hands, lovers' knots, crowned hearts, Cupid's arrows, flowers with hidden messages, snakes and butterflies were imaginatively used by jewellers to create magnificent jewels as symbols of romantic love.
Diamonds have long symbolized political power and authority in Europe. This book explores the individuals who commissioned and wore extraordinarily precious diamond ornaments from the mid-fourteenth century to the present day. Exquisite paintings and breathtaking photography highlight the diamonds of figures as enduring as Louis XIV of France and Queen Elizabeth I of Great Britain, as well as screen icons such as Elizabeth Taylor. From Lisbon to London and Stockholm to St. Petersburg, these figures used diamond jewelry to reinforce their power. Like royal dress, diamonds were worn to dazzle and impress--at weddings, coronations, christenings, and state visits--and were presented as gifts, which often proved remarkably successful as instruments of diplomacy. More than three hundred illustrations capture the changing styles of diamond jewelry that mirror the trends of the time: late Gothic naturalism, the culture of the Renaissance, Baroque splendor, Rococo elegance and the imperial grandeur of the First and Second Napoleonic Empires. This book offers a fascinating overview of one of the world's most iconic gems.
A classic Antique Collectors' Club title, Understanding Jewellery is now available in a revised and fully updated third edition and is unique in explaining why jewellery values vary and the individual points important for each category. Explanations are given in a straightforward, uncomplicated manner with a text largely linked directly to specific illustrations. This makes the assimilation of the information much easier than in traditional text dominated books. The authors, both jewellery experts, evaluate many millions of pounds worth annually and thus handle a complete cross-section of what is available on the market. They have specially selected the hundreds of superb colour illustrations to show what to look for and, equally important, what to avoid. Whether interested in the history of fashion, deciding what to buy or simply to enjoy a visual feast of beautiful objects, this book will serve as an invaluable reference and represents outstanding value. This book is an excellent guide to
Sheffield born silversmiths and designers working in the Arts and Crafts movement The Art and Crafts period is perennially fashionable A fascinating history of history of one of the most successful silversmithing collaborations of the 20th Century Major UK publicity and marketing campaign
What is a cabochon? What are the various types of gilding? What is vermeil? This accessible book—the first of its kind—offers concise explanations of key jewelry terms. The fascination with personal adornment is universal. It is a preoccupation that is primal, instinctive, and uniquely human. Jewelry encompasses a seemingly endless number of ornaments produced across time and in all cultures. The range of materials and techniques used in its construction is extraordinary, even revolutionary, with new substances and methods of fabrication added with every generation. In any given society, master artisans have devoted their time, energy, and talent to the fine art of jewelry making, creating some of the most spectacular objects known to humankind.
This volume, geared toward jewelry makers, scholars, scientists, students, and fashionistas alike, begins with a lively introduction that offers a cultural history of jewelry and its production. The main text provides information on the most common, iconic, and culturally significant forms of jewelry and also covers materials, techniques, and manufacturing processes. Containing more than eighty color illustrations, this guide will be invaluable to all those wishing to increase their understanding and enjoyment of the art of jewelry.
From Empress Farah and the secrets of the treasure of Iran, to Queen Marie Amelie's missing emeralds, via Fantomas and the blood-red rubies of the kings of Burma, entering the world of Van Cleef & Arpels is like embarking upon a fascinating treasure hunt. In this book, Vincent Meylan explores a century in the history of one of the most prestigious Parisian jewelry dynasties. He opens doors and unlocks caskets to reveal the mysterious, and sometimes fantastic, stories of its clients and the fabulous and exceptional stones that they entrusted to the "golden hands" of Van Cleef & Arpels. The Maharani of Baroda, the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Lilian of Belgium, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Dietrich, Princess Grace of Monaco, Maria Callas, Barbara Hutton and the Countess of Camargo: they are all the heroines of this incredible epic full of rubies, diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires. Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends is full of extravagant fairytales and fascinating behind-the-scenes revelations. It also tells the sometimes troubled story of a dynasty of jewelers, of gifted men and women who have, for over a century, helped to shape that inimitably Parisian art de vivre that is the envy of the world. Contents: Chapter I: The Goddess with a Passion for Diamonds; Sita Devi, Maharani of Baroda; Diamonds, Pearl Carpets, and Gladiators; Chapter II: Royal Favorites; The Theft of the Duchess's Jewels: Wallis Warfield Simpson, Duchess of Windsor; For the Love of a King: Lilian, Princess of Rethy; The Lost Emeralds of Queen Astrid; Chapter III: Prince Charming; Diamonds on the Nile: Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, Crown Prince and Future Shah of Iran; Streets filled with Diamonds; When Hollywood Met High Society: Prince Rainier of Monaco; Chapter IV: The Crown of the Thousand and One Nights; Empress Farah; The Diamond Flowers of Princess Soraya; The Iranian Crown Jewels; Chapter V: A Girl's Best Friend; The World's Sexiest Garter: Marlene Dietrich; The Demure Jewels of a Star Who Was Anything But: Ava Gardner; Christmas Stocking Filler: Elizabeth Taylor; Chapter VI: Queens of Style; The Heartaches of Nina Dyer; The Eugenie Blue Diamond; The Gilded Legend of the Aga Khans; "Poor Little Rich Girl": Barbara Hutton; Cuba's Madame de Pompadour: Maria; Chapter VII: Dancing Jewels; "Emeralds"; The Legend of the Emerald Cross; A Revolution and Two World Wars: The Saga of the Romanov Emeralds; The Diadem of the Last Queen of the French; From Napoleon to Stalin: The Trials and Tribulations of Empress Marie-Louise's Emeralds; "Rubies"; The Blood-Red "Thibaw" Ruby; A Wedding Gift for the Queen of Spain; "Diamonds"; From the Empress Josephine to Princess Grace; The Pink Diamond of the Prince of Baroda; The Diamonds of the Queen of Thailand; Chapter VIII: Treasures and Legends; Esther ("Estelle") Arpels, Mme. Alfred Van Cleef; Renee Puissant, nee Van Cleef; The Mystery of the Ruby Peonies; Helene Ostrowska, Mme. Louis Arpels; Fantomas at Van Cleef & Arpels; Catalog of historic jewelry published in 1950 as publicity for Van Cleef & Arpels New York."
From medieval pilgrim badges and Renaissance hat decorations to jewelled brooches and twentieth-century political pins, brooches and badges are often more than practical or decorative dress fasteners; they are expressions of identity. Focusing on the V&A(1)s world-famous collection, Brooches & Badges explores the evolution of these intricate and versatile works of art, and the way in which changes in dress have dictated their use.
Newly published in a fifth edition, this definitive guide takes the mystery out of appreciating, buying and selling gemstones. It covers everything from the romance and history of more than 1,800 gemstones to their geographic locations; scientific, physical and colour properties; and the way they are formed, structured and mined. The book also fully covers the optical features of gems - light and colour, luminescence, refraction and inclusions - and key information about the densities and chemical elements of each stone, with fascinating details on different cuts, polishing, gems, hardness, cleavage, classification, trade names, rarity and more. There are also many charts and diagrams as well as magnificent colour photographs of the stones with data about them on the facing page. If you want only one book on gemstones in your library, this would be the one!
Edith Sitwell, Margot Fonteyn, Frank Sinatra, Yul Brynner, Barbra Streisand and Vivienne Westwood are just a few of the luminaries who have visited Wartski's showrooms, lured by a dazzling array of gems, jewellery, goldsmiths' work and the famous Faberge collection.Geoffrey Munn, managing director of Wartski, tells the remarkable story of how the firm rose from humble beginnings in Bangor, North Wales, to become jewellers to six generations of the British Royal family and famous throughout the world. The lively text of Wartski: The First Hundred and Fifty Years will be a source of deep fascination to all enthusiasts of jewellery, European royalty, Faberge and, in particular, celebrities from every walk of life.
A cross-cultural examination of jewelry spanning 5,000 years that investigates not only the objects themselves but also the bodies they decorated As an art form, jewelry is defined primarily through its connection to and interaction with the body-extending it, amplifying it, accentuating it, distorting it, concealing it, or transforming it. But how is the meaning of jewelry bound to the body that wears it? Establishing six different modes of ornamenting the body-Deconstructed, Divine, Regal, Idealized, Alluring, and Resplendent-this artfully designed book illustrates how these various definitions of the body give meaning to the jewelry that adorns it. More than 200 examples of exceptional jewelry and ornaments, created across the globe from antiquity to the present, are shown alongside paintings and sculptures of bejeweled bodies to demonstrate the social, political, and aesthetic role of jewelry. From earflares of warrior heroes in Pre-Columbian Peru to designs by Yves Saint-Laurent, these precious and most intimate works of art provide insight not only about the wearer but also into the designers, artisans, and cultures that produced them.
Art as Jewellery is a visually stunning introduction to jewellery made by the titans of twentieth and twenty-first century art. From Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, through to Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst and Grayson Perry, the great figures of modern art have all turned both thought and talent to jewellery. Often, they have eschewed the traditional jeweller's preoccupation with material value and provenance, more concerned with the conceptual or aesthetic significance of their work. As is fitting for a book that covers a range of artists, every image is as striking as it is unique. By using contemporary pictures, Art as Jewellery develops a chronological timeline of jewellery presentation. Its pages are home to a stunning variety of design sketches and photographs. Some were shot by renowned 20th century photographers, such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, while others have been buried in archives for decades, unseen since the '60s. In contrast, modern works have been given model treatment by top photographer Alexander English, making this book a glamorous blend of new and classic jewellery art. Author Louisa Guinness, collector and gallery owner, provides insightful commentary on each artist and their work. Her input can be felt on a personal level; having worked alongside many of these artists as they developed their jewellery, she is in the perfect position to reveal the personal stories behind these pieces' creation. Full-page colour photographs and sketches, some showing the artist at work in the studio, or with their muse, accompany each profile. Louisa also explores each artist in the context of the genre's evolution, looking at the key exhibitions that have shaped the interest of artists and collectors. This book will be of interest to jewellery and art lovers alike.
Newly updated and expanded,
With more varieties than ever before to choose from, including altogether new gems, revolutionary new cuts and new ways to buy gems such as Internet auctions and TV shopping there has never been a more exciting time to buy or collect colored gemstones. But there are also new high-tech treatments and sophisticated frauds to look out for. Lack of information, error or misrepresentation can make the thrill of buying a gem or piece of jewelry confusing, intimidating, overwhelming and "costly." Buyers need a source of expert guidance.
This practical, comprehensive, easy-to-understand guide provides all the information you need in order to know "what to look for, " and "what to look out for," including: What qualifies as a gemstone ? How to evaluate color and its impact on price. Deciding between a "natural" gem and an "enhanced" gem and new glass-gemstone "compositions." Colored gemstone synthesis and treatment. What to ask when buying the stone. What to get "in writing." How to get what you want within your budget. Price guides for popular gems, opals and synthetic stones. Important information about buying on the Internet. ... and much more
"Written by an insider, " this easy-to-read guide is the unofficial colored gemstone bible "for anyone who wants to get the most for their money"and enjoy what they have purchased.
Jewels and Jewellery surveys splendid early medieval pieces and superb examples of Renaissance, Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau and 21st-century jewellery. Exquisitely detailed photography reveals both rare and precious stones as well as the elaborate techniques of the jeweller's craft such as chasing, enamelling and cameo. Claire Phillips considers the history of Western jewellery in three parts, first exploring the materials used by jewellers, then turning to the development of styles in jewellery from the Middle Ages to today, before exploring the ways in which jewellery has been hallmarked, distributed and worn over recent centuries. The book concludes with a glossary, bibliography and list of key designers. Showcasing pieces by Cartier, Tiffany and Liberty, this beautiful volume is the ultimate guide to the history of Western jewellery.
This book offers a unique way of exploring the world of vintage jewelry for experts, newcomers, and anyone with an interest in the topic. Every piece of jewelry tells a story, and none more so than the exquisite pieces in this book, which have passed through several notable owners before arriving at Joseph Saidian & Sons, an antique jeweler's shop nestled in the Manhattan Art and Antiques Center. Each chapter is centered around a particular piece of jewelry and the way in which it is emblematic: a previous owner, an exemplary design or dominant material. From an array of historic pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels to a discussion of Indian royalty and its relationship with jewelry to pages filled with exquisite pearl jewelry, this book satisfies both the casual fan and the devotee with full-color photographs and informative themed chapters. The eclectic choice of jewels and objets makes this a book unlike any other, with myriad entry points to larger discussions on broader themes and trends that the pieces figure into. This publication features beautiful full-color photographs of jewelry from various historical eras up to the present day, with a wide range of materials and styles. Each piece offers a different entry point for discussing the history of jewelry and various design elements, techniques, materials, and societal implications.
Until recently beads were under-researched. Even today in the UK, antique markets, necklaces and single beads still turn up in bargain boxes at cheap prices, whether glass, plastic, semiprecious stones - in fact almost anything that can have a threadable hole - or ethnic jewellery, holiday souvenirs or lavish carnival costume accessories. Throughout history, beads have shown prestige and wealth in their roles as trade goods, heirlooms and dowry, markers of tribal loyalty, prayer aids, magic talismans, love tokens and signs of status in life. Beads reveal the most amazing skills and give us an idea of the things we value enough to copy in miniature. They continue to display astonishing ingenuity - they are made of almost every possible material. Handmade or mass-produced glass, stone, ceramic, bone, shell, coral, amber, jet, cast or handwrought metals; found objects; constructed with tiny beads stitched together or woven in traditional patterns: each piece leads to new discoveries. This book helps you explore the origins of many of your treasures, whatever types of bead you collect, covering a wide range of categories such as `eye beads', Millefiori Trade Beads found in the 1960s, exotic tropical seeds necklaces, carved nuts, Art Deco chokers, real or reproduction Egyptian Mummy beads, Tibetan stone Zi beads with applied designs, rosaries and prayer beads or even the antique beads found on traditional English lace bobbins!
Spectacular photographs of the breathtaking beautiful objects and sensitive portraits of the artists combine with an insightful, informative text to capture the spirit of this work and the vital cultures from which it springs. This ground-breaking volume opens by surveying the vividly colored necklaces, earrings, and pins made in shell and stone from prehistoric times to the present, particularly in the Santo Domingo and Zuni pueblos. The focus then shifts to the much-admired and avidly collected work in silver - often set with turquoise and other stones - by Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni artists. The book culminates in an exploration of striking contemporary work in which many artists have adapted traditional approaches to create original designs. A collector's guide offers invaluable advice as well as an illustrated glossary of materials, techniques, objects, and designs. A nationwide directory of sources concludes the book.
-A new, updated edition of this bestselling guide to understanding, identifying and buying gemstones -Includes many new images, updated text and a new section on jewelry -A clear, uncomplicated approach to the subject, illustrated in color throughout, making the identification of gems simple Whether buying gem-set jewelry or loose stones, you will be faced with a colorful array of beauty and value. With such a wide choice - from amethyst to zircon - which should you choose? What is it worth, and how do you even know it is real? All that glitters is not gold, as they say, and all that sparkles is not diamond. Gemstones helps to answer these questions in simple and easy to understand terms. As well as diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, over 100 gems are featured, with full descriptions, technical details, and tips on how to check for fakes. The book is illustrated throughout with fabulous color photographs to make identification easier. Technical terms such as refraction and fluorescence are explained and some basic identification tests are introduced. A helpful tour around the world details where gems are best available. Informative appendices include a glossary of terms, tables of specific gravity and refractive index, and the comparative value of different stones. The clear, uncomplicated presentation makes this book a must for anyone interested in gemstones, whether as an investment or simply as a hobby.
For centuries, the stories of the world's great jewellery collections have lain hidden within the archives of Christie's, the celebrated auctioneers. From the tragic European queens, Mary, Queen of Scots and Marie Antoinette - both beheaded - to Hollywood royalty such as Elizabeth Taylor, the vaults sparkle with the most celebrated (and occasionally notorious) names of the last 250 years. Following on from the success of his books on Boucheron: The Secret Archives, Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends and Mellerio: Jewellers to the Queens of Europe, author Vincent Meylan explores these remarkable jewellery archives, revealing the mysteries within for the first time. Each sale had its intrigue, each its story to tell. The first auction of jewellery from the British royal family took place at Christie's in 1773, after the death of the Princess of Wales, mother of George III. As the archives reveal, in the subsequent centuries, Christie's has been party to the sale of jewellery by several further generations of British royals, from Lady Patricia Ramsay and the Countess of Southesk through to Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon.And, in the wake of revolution and regicide further afield, the crown jewels of France, Russia, Bavaria, Serbia, Egypt, India and Spain were all sold at Christie's. Aside from Elizabeth Taylor, the legendary movie star collections of Merle Oberon and Gloria Swanson are also revealed here, as well as the most famous pearls and diamonds in the world; each explored within the context of their owners' remarkable lives. Expertly curating the extensive archives, Vincent Meylan has drawn out the key details of each momentous sale. Original documents from the vaults are reproduced in the book, alongside hundreds of colour illustrations of the jewels and their owners.
High jewellery has entered the 21st century with a spring in its step. Design has been as diverse as it has been innovative. The technical advances of the '90s and the new materials being used by this exuberant group of independent jewellers have helped pave the way to breaking down preconceived ideas of high jewellery. Some enjoy the adventure of finding the rarest of gemstones that speak to them, others seek to tell a tale or relay a secret message to the wearer and thus the onlooker. They are artists, engineers and adventurers; and, above all, they are passionate about their world, using only the best workmanship wherever it is to be found. From the great JAR, to James de Givenchy and Nicholas Varney in the West, and Michelle Ong, Wallace Chan and Bhagat in the East, 21st-Century Jewellery Designers: An Inspired Style is an exploration into the designers' worlds. Interviews reveal the designers' inspirations and passions, their signature materials, designing processes, and how their personalities influence their designs.
The Alice and Louis Koch Collection of finger rings was originally collated by a jeweller from Frankfurt am Main, once described as the German 'Cartier and Faberge'. By 1909 the collection comprised 1,722 rings from Antiquity to 1900. Rene Lalique, a contemporary of the time, was included, undoubtedly as a moderniser of the ring form. In the past twenty-five years the fourth generation of the family continued where Louis Koch and his wife Alice left off and expanded the collection to include rings from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. This publication will present the complete collection of contemporary rings, now kept in the Swiss National Museum, Zurich. Nearly 600 rings by artist jewellers from around the world document how these miniature works of art have become modern sculptures showcasing new materials and techniques, daring designs and current themes. Text in English and German.
The Fitzwilliam Museum holds stunning examples of jewellery and metalwork from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. This exceptional period of design covers the neo-Gothic and historicist designs of the 1850s and 1860s, the ground-breaking work of British Arts & Crafts designers, sinuous curves influenced by the European Art Nouveau movement and the structural modernity of the 1930s. Arranged chronologically by designer - Alessandro Castellani, John Brogden, William Burges, Henry Wilson, C.R. Ashbee and Omar Ramsden to name some - this beautifully illustrated volume reproduces over 50 of the Museum's most important pieces from this highly popular and fruitful period, many previously unpublished.
Jade is often thought of as something ancient and gathering dust in museums, but in China it is a vibrant part of modern life. More jade has been carved this century than in the rest of human history combined. For Chinese people, jade represents everything that is pure and noble, and Andrew Shaw gave up his life in England to embrace it, and became the only foreign master jade carver in China. Jade Life tells his story and also the story of jade itself. His description of the jade industry today provides insights into the hearts of Chinese people and also into how they have managed to turn a backwater state into a world superpower in less than three decades.
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