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'A refreshingly honest reminder of what the path to business success really looks like ... It's an amazing tale' Bill Gates
'The best book I read last year was Shoe Dog, by Nike's Phil Knight. Phil is a very wise, intelligent and competitive fellow who is also a gifted storyteller' Warren Buffett
In 1962, fresh out of business school, Phil Knight borrowed $50 from his father and created a company with a simple mission: import high-quality, low-cost athletic shoes from Japan. Selling the shoes from the boot of his Plymouth, Knight grossed $8000 in his first year. Today, Nike's annual sales top $30 billion. In an age of start-ups, Nike is the ne plus ultra of all start-ups, and the swoosh has become a revolutionary, globe-spanning icon, one of the most ubiquitous and recognisable symbols in the world today.
But Knight, the man behind the swoosh, has always remained a mystery. Now, for the first time, he tells his story. Candid, humble, wry and gutsy, he begins with his crossroads moment when at 24 he decided to start his own business. He details the many risks and daunting setbacks that stood between him and his dream - along with his early triumphs. Above all, he recalls how his first band of partners and employees soon became a tight-knit band of brothers. Together, harnessing the transcendent power of a shared mission, and a deep belief in the spirit of sport, they built a brand that changed everything.
A memoir rich with insight, humour and hard-won wisdom, this book is also studded with lessons - about building something from scratch, overcoming adversity, and ultimately leaving your mark on the world.
This comprehensive survey of textiles from every region of the Indian subcontinent runs the gamut of commercial, tribal and folk textiles. The authors first place them in cultural context by examining the history, materials and various techniques - weaving, dyeing, printing and painting. They then give a detailed region-by-region account of traditional textile production, including chapters on Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. A dazzling array of images provides an unsurpassed visual account of the textiles, while a detailed reference section with further reading, museums and information on technical terms completes this essential guide.
** A RADIO 4 BOOK OF THE WEEK ** 'Fascinating . . . The history of the world through the eye of a needle . . . I recommend this book to anyone' THE SPECTATOR 'A charming, absorbing and history that takes us on a journey from the silk roads to sportswear, from ruffs to spacesuits . . . I devoured this quietly feminist book' SUNDAY TIMES 'Joyful and beautiful' NATURE 'Will make you rethink your relationship with fabric' ELLE DECORATION All textiles begin with a twist. From colourful 30,000-year old threads found on the floor of a Georgian cave to what the linen wrappings of Tutankhamun's mummy actually meant; from the Silk Roads to the woollen sails that helped the Vikings reach America 700 years before Columbus; from the lace ruffs that infuriated the puritans to the Indian calicoes and chintzes that powered the Industrial Revolution, our continuing reinvention of cloth tells fascinating stories of human ingenuity. When we talk of lives hanging by a thread, being interwoven, or part of the social fabric, we are part of a tradition that stretches back many thousands of years. Fabric has allowed us to achieve extraordinary things and survive in unlikely places, and this book shows you how -- and why. With a cast that includes Chinese empresses, Richard the Lionheart and Bing Crosby, Kassia St Clair takes us on the run with escaped slaves, climbing the slopes of Everest and moonwalking with astronauts. Running like a bright line through history, The Golden Thread offers an unforgettable adventure through our past, present and future.
Author Richard Parsons, for many years a buyer in Afghanistan for the well-known firm O.C.M (London) Ltd, treats the reader not only to a veritable feast of carpets and rugs, all with their attendant tribal origins and motifs vividly explained, but also to a fascinating journey through the history of a diverse and colourful country. The author shares his respect and admiration for Afghanistan's stoic people, who, somehow, despite political upheavals, forced resettlement, a harsh climate and often primitive nomadic conditions, manage to fashion exquisite works of art which reflect their pride in their many-faceted heritage. Afghan rugs, which are instantly appealing due to their traditional colours and bold designs, open up a whole vista for the collector, from sumptuous piled purdahs to flat woven prayer rugs, all of them well illustrated in the 154 colour and 90 black and white plates.
For centuries, most textile manufacturing relied on people working in their own homes. All that changed in 1761 when Richard Arkwright began construction of the first water-powered cotton mill in Derbyshire. The complex woollen industry was transformed as mills spread cross the north of England and into Scotland, with tasks taken out of the cottage and into the factory. This informative guide tracks the development of the textile manufacturing industry, from industrial power looms meeting with Luddite resistance, to the distinctive silk weaving workrooms. Mill towns sprung up around places of work, including special apprentice houses for children. Conditions were harsh and often dangerous, both in the mills and in woollen towns living under permanent palls of smoke. Packed with photographs and illustrations, this is a classic Pitkin guide to the everyday lives of the workers in this mills and towns, from their work to their time off. There was a time when Britain sent textiles around the world: this is the story of the workforce, mainly women and children, who made this possible - and created the factory age. Includes a list of mills, museums and visitor centres to visit.
The keys to global business success, as taught by a T-shirt's journey The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy is a critically-acclaimed narrative that illuminates the globalization debates and reveals the key factors to success in global business. Tracing a T-shirt's life story from a Texas cotton field to a Chinese factory and back to a U.S. storefront before arriving at the used clothing market in Africa, the book uncovers the political and economic forces at work in the global economy. Along the way, this fascinating exploration addresses a wealth of compelling questions about politics, trade, economics, ethics, and the impact of history on today's business landscape. This new printing of the second edition includes a revised preface and a new epilogue with updates through 2014 on the people, industries, and policies related to the T-shirt's life story. Using a simple, everyday T-shirt as a lens through which to explore the business, economic, moral, and political complexities of globalization in a historical context, Travels encapsulates a number of complex issues into a single identifiable object that will strike a chord with readers as they: Investigate the sources of sustained competitive advantage in different industries Examine the global economic and political forces that explain trade patters between countries Analyze complex moral issues related to globalization and international business Discover the importance of cultural and human elements in international trade This story of a simple product illuminates the many complex issues which businesspeople, policymakers, and global citizens are touched by every day.
Fashion studies is a burgeoning field that often highlights the contributions of genius designers and high-profile brands with little reference to what goes on behind the scenes in the supply chain. This book pulls back the curtain on the global fashion system of the past 200 years to examine the relationship between the textile mills of Yorkshire - the firms that provided the entire Western world with warm wool fabrics - and their customers. It is a microhistory of a single firm, Abraham Moon and Sons Ltd, that sheds light on important macro questions about British industry, government policies on international trade, the role of multi-generational family firms and the place of design and innovation in business strategy. It is the first book to connect Yorkshire tweeds to the fashion system. Written in lively, accessible prose, this book will appeal to anyone who works in fashion or who wears fashion. There is nothing like it - and it will raise the bar for historical studies of global fashion. Here you'll find intriguing stories about a tweed theft from the Leeds Coloured Cloth Hall, debates on tariffs and global trade, the battle against synthetic fibres and the reinvention of British tweeds around heritage marketing. You won't be bored. -- .
WINNER OF THE 2015 BANCROFT PRIZE WINNER OF THE 2015 PHILIP TAFT PRIZE FINALIST FOR THE 2015 PULITZER PRIZE FOR HISTORY SHORTLISTED FOR THE 2015 CUNDHILL PRIZE IN HISTORICAL LITERATURE Economist BOOKS OF THE YEAR 2015 'Knowledgeable and stunning' Orhan Pamuk 'A masterpiece of the historian's craft' The Nation For about 900 years, from 1000 to 1900, cotton was the world's most important manufacturing industry. It remains a vast business - if all the cotton bales produced in 2013 had been stacked on top of each other they would have made a somewhat unstable tower 40,000 miles high. Sven Beckert's superb new book is a history of the overwhelming role played by cotton in dictating the shape of our world. It is both a gripping narrative and a brilliant case history of how the world works.
Whether we are out on the streets or between the sheets, cotton is our constant companion. But behind this ubiquitous fibre prized for its softness lies a darker story of exploitation and hardship. In this penetrating analysis, Adam Sneyd explores the power politics that envelop cotton as major corporate players and countries across Africa, Asia and the Americas compete to control it. In the aftermath of sweatshop scandal exposes and factory collapse disasters, merchants and retailers have called for `better' cotton farming practices. But in seeking to prevent the next transnational media circus, will companies simply end up cementing business-as-usual? Corporate public relations strategy now competes directly with the voices of an alternative global community that seeks to fundamentally transform the way that cotton is farmed. Yet these demands for cotton to work better for people and the planet have flown under the radar as media attention has focused instead on farmer subsidies and prices. From the local to the global, this book takes the reader on an illuminating journey through the multifaceted and often grubby politics of the fluffy white stuff in the world economy. The pile of political laundry it uncovers is voluminous but, as Sneyd argues, must be aired in the interests of sustainability and development.
In this wide-ranging account, Robert DuPlessis examines globally sourced textiles that by dramatically altering consumer behaviour, helped create new economies and societies in the early modern world. This deeply researched history of cloth and clothing offers new insights into trade patterns, consumer demand and sartorial cultures that emerged across the Atlantic world between the mid-seventeenth and late-eighteenth centuries. As a result of European settlement and the construction of commercial networks stretching across much of the planet, men and women across a wide spectrum of ethnicities, social standings and occupations fashioned their garments from materials old and new, familiar and strange, and novel meanings came to be attached to different fabrics and modes of dress. The Material Atlantic illuminates crucial developments that characterised early modernity, from colonialism and slavery to economic innovation and new forms of social identity.
Many of us now look at the clothes we wear and wonder about the
conditions at the factory where they were made. Did children stitch
our shirts and pants? Were the workers compensated fairly? Were
they forced into labor? The answers--often harsh--change our
feelings about these products and lead us to yet another question:
are there better options? "Material Change" is the story of
architect and entrepreneur Eve Blossom, who built her design
business, Lulan Artisans, on a framework of ecological, economic
and social sustainability. Lulan Artisans is a for-profit social
venture that designs, produces and markets contemporary textiles
made by Blossom's collaborators--over 650 weavers, dyers, spinners
and finishers in Cambodia, India, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam.
Lulan's mission is ambitious: to preserve artisanal traditions; to
give workers an ample wage, benefits and a safe workplace; to bring
stability to communities by creating jobs; and to provide economic
alternatives to human trafficking. Here, Blossom describes her
travels and experiences in bustling cities and remote villages in
Vietnam, Cambodia and elsewhere in Southeast Asia, as the region
was opening its doors to free trade and tourism. We walk with her
through markets where handmade fabrics are sold, and accompany her
on motorbikes to visit rural villages devoted to farming and
weaving. We learn how she formed Lulan Artisans, by getting to know
the artisans and their designs, processes and heritages. Blossom's
trips to Southeast Asia put her face-to-face with the horrors of
the sex trade, galvanizing her commitment to disruptive
entrepreneurship. Also featured are stories by other disruptive
entrepreneurs who are part of a growing movement to merge design,
social compassion and business: Muna AbuSulayman, Patrick Awuah,
Shashin Chokshi, Tali Gottlieb, Joi Ito, Dr. Jordan Kassalow,
Shaffi Mather, Tobias Rose-Stockwell, Juliana Rotich and Ricardo
Teran. The result is a new, holistic model for the twenty-first
In today's world of unequal globalization, Bangladesh has drawn international attention for the spate of factory disasters that have taken the lives of numerous garment workers, mostly young women. The contemporary garment industry--and the labor organizing pushing back--draws on a long history of gendered labor division and exploitation in East Bengal, the historical antecedent of Bangladesh. Yet despite the centrality of women's labor to anticolonial protest and postcolonial state-building, historiography has struggled with what appears to be its absence from the archive. Poulomi Saha offers an innovative account of women's political labor in East Bengal over more than a century, one that suggests new ways to think about textiles and the gendered labors of their making. An Empire of Touch argues that women have articulated--in writing, in political action, in stitching--their own desires in their own terms. They produce narratives beyond women's empowerment and independence as global and national projects; they refuse critical pronouncements of their own subjugation. Saha follows the historical traces of how women have claimed their own labor, contending that their political commitments are captured in the material objects of their manufacture. Her analysis of the production of historical memory through and by the bodies of women spans British colonialism and American empire, anticolonial nationalism to neoliberal globalization, depicting East Bengal between development economics and postcolonial studies. Through a material account of text and textile, An Empire of Touch crafts a new narrative of gendered political labor under empire.
Exposed to powerful new economic forces, and undergoing dramatic ownership reforms and technological changes, China's industries are modernizing at a breakneck pace. In many industries, the outcomes have been chaotic and poorly aligned with societal objectives. This book analyses the transformation and modernization of China's industries through a detailed investigation of the wool and wool textile industries. The authors argue that to remain internationally competitive in the post WTO accession era, Chinese industries need to confront a critical new phase in the modernization process - that of improving management practices and industry co-ordination. Modernizing China's Industries is a comprehensive, integrated and in-depth investigation of industry transformation and modernization. The extensive first-hand research, across a range of industry segments and participants, spans almost two decades. The analysis reveals much about industry modernization and transition in China for a broad range of industries and therefore provides invaluable information for developing strategies and accessing opportunities within China. This book offers unique insights for academics and researchers in Asian studies, transition studies and industrial transformation, as well as policymakers and industry leaders interested in both the intricacies and mega-forces involved in China's industrial modernization. The comprehensive industry analysis also provides a valuable reference for professionals in the increasingly China-centric world of wool and wool textiles as well as offering insights for other textile industry professionals.
Economic development that is environmentally, socially and ethically sound is at the forefront of contemporary debates all over the world. This is especially relevant to international trade where goods manufactured in least developed countries (LDCs) are being exported to developed countries (DCs) via international supply chains. This book looks at Bangladesh's ready-made garments (RMG) industry -- the seventh largest in the world -- facing demands for environmental and social management according to standards set by consumers in environmentally progressive societies. Apart from these concerns not having found cultural or institutional resonance in Bangladesh, the pressures for cost reduction, on-time delivery and cheap labour in a highly competitive international market make the problem that much more complex. In this book Selim uses the analytical framework provided by the ecological modernisation theory to examine the economic, communicative and social political aspects of ethical trade, and argues that the economy-ecology relationship can indeed be a positive sum game if nation-states and economic actors change their policymaking styles and greening behaviour to take advantage of scientific evidence and green technological opportunities.
Imported from India, China, the Levant, and Persia and appreciated for their diversity, designs, fast bright colours and fine weave, Asian textiles became so popular in France that in 1686 the state banned their import, consumption and imitation. A fateful decision. This book tells the story of smuggling on a vast scale, savvy retailers and rebellious consumers. It also reveals how reformers in the French administration itself sponsored a global effort to acquire the technological know-how necessary to produce such textiles and how the vitriolic debates surrounding the eventual abolition of the ban were one of the decisive moments in the development of Enlightenment economic liberalism.
'I dragged my heels all the way to the mill. `I can't do it!' I sulked. Mother sighed and shook her head. My heart sank. Of course, I'd seen the mill hundreds of times before, but now it was different - now, I was going in. I'd never seen a place so depressing; I wanted to cry.' With tales from hardworking Audrey and mischievous Maureen to high-spirited Doris and dedicated Marjorie, The Mill Girls is an evocative story of hardship and friendship from when cotton was still king. Through the eyes of these northern mill girls, we are offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of ordinary women who rallied together, nattered over the beamers and, despite the difficult conditions, weaved, packed and laughed to keep the cotton mills spinning.
Archaeologists and textile historians bring together 16 papers to investigate the production, trade and consumption of textiles in Scandinavia and across parts of northern and Mediterranean Europe throughout the medieval period. Archaeological evidence is used to demonstrate the existence or otherwise of international trade and to examine the physical characteristics of textiles and their distribution in order to understand who was producing, using and trading them and what they were being used for. Historical evidence, mainly textual, is employed to link textile names to places, numbers and prices and thus provide an appreciation of changing economics, patterns of distribution and the organisation of trade. Different types and qualities of cloths are discussed and the social implications of their production and import/export considered against a developing background of urbanism and increasing commercial wealth.
The book mainly uses the New Institutional Economics Approach (NIE) to examine the formation and development of industrial clusters in China through multiple case studies of textile and clothing clusters in the Zhejiang province. The micro case studies illustrate the interaction between institutional change and the industrial development of China in transition.
It also attempts to fill the information gap through an analysis of the typical institutional factors leading to the development and upgrading of industrial clusters, and provides a better understanding of the changing nature of the public-private interface in the process of cluster development in China.
Throughout modern history, retailers have opened their doors to consumers, providing them with goods and services that satisfy both rational and emotional needs. They do this by evoking a customer's sensory system, to create memorable experiences that will entice shoppers to visit again and again. Starting with a brief overview of the history of retail, market research, site selection and retail typology are then discussed. The differences between on-site and off-site retailing are distinguished; and multi-channel approaches that have been used in retail test markets as a means to cost-effective growth within the industry are explored, with specific reference to how technology has created a new formula within a stagnant model. Fashion Retailing further explores back-of-house functions, such as human resources (hiring, payroll, job descriptions and salaries) and loss prevention from a management standpoint. Front-of-house functions, including merchandising (product analysis, fixturing, fixture sales tracking), visual merchandising (seasonal displays, windows, mannequins), circulation patterns and the relationship between the merchandising and management teams in driving overall sales and brand image, are explored across different retailers. Readers will gain a thorough understanding of how the retail model operates in an effort to continually capture the ever-changing market, as well as an insight into corporate social responsibility (CSR) and brand sustainability.
A journalist travels the world to trace the origins of our clothes
When journalist and traveler Kelsey Timmerman wanted to know where his clothes came from and who made them, he began a journey that would take him from Honduras to Bangladesh to Cambodia to China and back again. "Where Am I Wearing?" intimately describes the connection between impoverished garment workers' standards of living and the all-American material lifestyle. By introducing readers to the human element of globalization--the factory workers, their names, their families, and their way of life--"Where Am I Wearing" bridges the gap between global producers and consumers. New content includes: a visit to a fair trade Ethiopian shoe factory that is changing lives one job at time; updates on how workers worldwide have been squeezed by rising food costs and declining orders in the wake of the global financial crisis; and the author's search for the garment worker in Honduras who inspired the first edition of the bookKelsey Timmerman speaks and universities around the country and maintains a blog at www.whereamiwearing.com. His writing has appeared in the "Christian Science Monitor" and "Conde Nast Portfolio," and has aired on NPR.
Enlightening and thought-provoking at once, "Where Am I Wearing?" puts a human face on globalization.
Apparel manufacturing in the American South, by virtue of its size, its reliance upon female labour, and its broad geographic scope, is an important but often overlooked industry that connects the disparate concerns of women's history, southern cultural history, and labour history. In Striking Beauties, Michelle Haberland examines its essential features and the varied experiences of its workers during the industry's great expansion from the late 1930s through the demise of its southern branch at the end of the twentieth century. The popular conception of the early twentieth-century South as largely agrarian informs many histories of industry and labour in the United States. But as Haberland demonstrates, the apparel industry became a key part of the southern economy after the Great Depression and a major driver of southern industrialization. The gender and racial composition of the workforce, the growth of trade unions, technology, and capital investment were all powerful forces in apparel's migration south. Yet those same forces also revealed the tensions caused by racial and gender inequities not only in the region but in the nation at large. Striking Beauties places the struggles of working women for racial and economic justice in the larger context of southern history. The role of women as the primary consumers of the family placed them in a critical position to influence the success or failure of boycotts, union label programs and ultimately solidarity.
This book highlights the Social Life Cycle Assessment (SLCA) of the energy and textile sectors. It also presents a range of models, indices, impact categories, etc. for SLCA that are currently being developed for industrial applications. Though SLCA was introduced in 2010, it is still relatively new compared to environmental life cycle assessment (ELCA).
What hope is there for Syria? Clues can be found in the story of the Syrian cloth merchant Abu Chaker and his success against the odds. Barely literate, and supporting his mother and sisters from the age of ten, Abu Chaker built up a business empire--despite twice losing everything he had. Diana Darke follows his tumultuous journey, from instability in Syria and civil war in Lebanon, to his arrival in England in the 1970s, where he rescued a failing Yorkshire textile mill, Hield Bros, and transformed it into a global brand. The Merchant of Syria tells two parallel stories: the life of a cloth merchant and his resilience, and the rich history of a nation built on trade. Over millennia Syria has seen great conflict and turmoil, but like the remarkable story of Abu Chaker, it continues to survive.
Provides richly detailed full-colour photography of individual, high-end case studies of clothing packaging design, and also features sketches, and structural design concepts The highly competitive world of retail branding and brand packaging is evident in the increasing demand for creating unique, eye-catching and recognisable clothing packaging designs. Designers continue to focus their talent by leveraging striking visual devices into an internal and external messaging system via the product's packaging design, which acts as a portable and extendable marketing tool. This superbly designed book showcases innovative, custom-packaging designs across a range of products, including footwear, clothing and apparel, fashion products, and more. "Fashion Packaging Now" presents in highly illustrated, full-colour detail how the brand connects with the item and with the packaging itself, and offers unique insight on individual project design production strategies. The case studies are modern, contemporary examples, which also feature many well-known brands, such as Adidas, Nike, and Puma. This book will be a source of inspiration for design aficionados, advertising and merchandise managers, students, brand and retail managers, and educators in the product design and graphic design fields. AUTHOR: Chris Huang completed her Bachelor of Fine Art in Taipei with two years of graphic design graduate education in New York. She has more than 20 years of design field experience, based in Chicago, and has been teaching graphic design at the Illinois Institute of Art for more than a decade. SELLING POINTS: - Provides richly detailed full-colour photography of individual, high-end case studies of clothing packaging design, and also features sketches, and structural design concepts -Includes current, up-to-date knowledge components for designers, brand managers, retail managers, and educators in the fields of product and graphic design 400 col.
Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.
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