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In 1863, Stockport warehouseman William John Battersby refused to change the date of his wedding, a decision that ultimately cost him his job. He could never have guessed that this would be a pivotal moment, not just in his life, but ultimately in the history of the British hat industry. Starting his own business in a rented building with just twenty-one employees, within twenty years he had a purpose-built factory bearing his name, which was to endure for over a century and export to every continent. A proud and industrious workforce helped the business prosper over generations and through two world wars, until the latter half of the twentieth century saw the once-great industry decline and finally fade away. Using a wonderful collection of contemporary, largely unseen photographs, accounts and documents, Battersby Hats: An Illustrated History shows the progress of the firm and also the private triumphs and tragedies of the family who ran it. This is a fascinating celebration of the efforts and dreams of the founder, his descendants, and the employees who sustained this world-famous firm throughout its existence.
The cotton processing industry is a distinct sector of China's rural economy which recently underwent a momentous transition from plan to market. China is the world's largest producer as well as consumer of cotton, and cotton processing links the agricultural production of this important commodity to China's booming textile industry.
Alpermann examines the political economy of the cotton processing industry, analyzes the process of cotton policy making and discusses reform outcomes on a national scale and the central state's response. He then goes on to examine the implementation of economic transformation and institutional change in two traditional cotton-growing regions, looking at how local governments and the former monopolist cope with the changes brought about by marketization.
Studying the cotton industry provides a lens through which to observe the changes in the way the state governs the economy during China's transition and helps to assess the diverging claims about the nature of the political economy in China. As such China's Cotton Industry is an essential read for anyone studying Chinese business, econmics or politics.
Among the most evocative items to be discovered by archaeologists are the scraps of silk and wool and other fabrics that signal so eloquently their owner's status and concerns. Such clothing and textile finds have figured prominently in excavations of medieval sites in London in the past two decades; they have included knitting, tapestries, silk hair-nets and elaborately patterned oriental, Islamic and Italian fabrics, which reveal for the first time the wide range of cloths available to medieval Londoners; there are beautifully made buttons, and buttonholes and edgings which display superb craftsmanship and a high level of needlework skills; the way that clothes were cut and sewn can be studied in detail. This highly readable account will be of wide general interest; dress historians and archaeologists will also find a wealth of new insights into the fashions, clothing and textile industries of medieval England and Europe. Contents include: The Excavations, Techniques used in Textile Production, Wool Textiles, Goathair Textiles, Linen Textiles, Silk Textiles, Mixed Cloths, Narrow Wares, Sewing Techniques and Tailoring, Dyes. THE AUTHORS Past and present staff of the Museum of London.
In this book, Nina Sylvanus tells a captivating story of global trade and cross-cultural aesthetics in West Africa, showing how a group of Togolese women through the making and circulation of wax cloth became influential agents of taste and history. Traveling deep into the shifting terrain of textile manufacture, design, and trade, she follows wax cloth around the world and through time to unveil its critical role in colonial and postcolonial patterns of exchange and value production. Sylvanus brings wax cloth's unique and complex history to light: born as a nineteenth-century Dutch colonial effort to copy Javanese batik cloth for Southeast Asian markets, it was reborn as a status marker that has dominated the visual economy of West African markets. Although most wax cloth is produced in China today, it continues to be central to the expression of West African women's identity and power. As Sylvanus shows, wax cloth expresses more than this global motion of goods, capital, aesthetics, and labor it is a form of archive where intimate and national memories are stored, always ready to be reanimated by human touch. By uncovering this crucial aspect of West African material culture, she enriches our understanding of global trade, the mutual negotiations that drive it, and the how these create different forms of agency and subjectivity.
This book provides essential insights into Chinese consumer behaviors in the growing and dynamic fashion market. With increasing consumer purchasing power, readily accessible global brands, heavy application of digital technology and social media, as well as growing awareness of environmental issues, the Chinese fashion industry faces great opportunities and challenges at the same time. The contributing authors provide observations and address issues related to middle class fashion consumption, sustainable apparel consumption, technology application in fashion retailing, and the select traditional and new industry segments in the context of China's recent and massive economic boom. As such, the book offers an invaluable reference guide for all academics and practitioners interested in the Chinese fashion market.
"This book is excellent for training future tech designers on how to develop the tech pack." Tameka Ellington, Kent State University, US Learn technical design processes and industry standards, such as ASTM and ISO, for apparel production and manufacturing practices. With more than 1,100 images and technical packages for 12 apparel products, the book explains topics like fabric selection, finding seasonal fashion trends, garment construction, and fit evaluation, all so you can cost-effectively meet consumer needs. You'll learn about product categories including women's wear, menswear, and knitwear, as well as how to create a cost sheet and manage product data, to help you develop specification sheets and technical packages for specific markets. Technical Sourcebook for Apparel Designers STUDIO -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions -Access downloadable files for technical packages and a library of editable style flats This bundle includes Technical Sourcebook for Apparel Designers, 3rd edition and Technical Sourcebook for Apparel Designers STUDIO Access Card.
The moving image has become a key marketing tool for luxury fashion, central in enabling brands to shape their visual codes and extend their brand awareness. Fashion Film is the first detailed study of the shifting shape of fashion imagery in the digital age, investigating the role of the moving image in the promotion, communication and spectacle of contemporary fashion. Combining interdisciplinary analysis of cinema and digital culture, this ground-breaking book traces the emergence of fashion film in the 21st century through its historical roots in pre-digital forms of photography, experimental cinema, mass-media advertising and documentary film-making, right up to today's visual spread of contemporary fashion on video blogs, online magazines and live-streamed catwalk shows. Examining collaborations between fashion designers and pioneering image-makers such as Guy Bourdin, Jean-Paul Goode, William Klein and Nick Knight, the book highlights the critical tension between the fashion film conceived as a creative endeavour and as commercial enterprise. Fashion Film also includes a parallel focus on factual representations of fashion through the recent rise of documentary fashion film that goes behind the scenes to follow the processes and personalities involved in making fashion. Accessible and well-illustrated, Fashion Film will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, film, media, photography, celebrity, sociology and cultural studies.
Throughout modern history, retailers have opened their doors to consumers, providing them with goods and services that satisfy both rational and emotional needs. They do this by evoking a customer's sensory system, to create memorable experiences that will entice shoppers to visit again and again. Starting with a brief overview of the history of retail, market research, site selection and retail typology are then discussed. The differences between on-site and off-site retailing are distinguished; and multi-channel approaches that have been used in retail test markets as a means to cost-effective growth within the industry are explored, with specific reference to how technology has created a new formula within a stagnant model. Fashion Retailing further explores back-of-house functions, such as human resources (hiring, payroll, job descriptions and salaries) and loss prevention from a management standpoint. Front-of-house functions, including merchandising (product analysis, fixturing, fixture sales tracking), visual merchandising (seasonal displays, windows, mannequins), circulation patterns and the relationship between the merchandising and management teams in driving overall sales and brand image, are explored across different retailers. Readers will gain a thorough understanding of how the retail model operates in an effort to continually capture the ever-changing market, as well as an insight into corporate social responsibility (CSR) and brand sustainability.
In 1962, Masahiro Shima founded Shima Seiki, with the aim of developing a fully automated seamless glove-knitting machine. Following this success, the company expanded into flat knitting machines. However, the age of the computer brought a whole new era for Shima Seiki. By committing to computerization in its mainstream products, Shima Seiki gradually began to stand apart from its competitors. Shima Seiki's focus on computer-aided knit design and programming, in fact led to a revolution in the fashion industry. Written by the inventor himself, this book looks at how Masahiro Shima developed both the technology and philosophy to enable his company to be market leaders in industrial knitting machines - and fundamentally change the fashion industry. This culminated in the launch of the company's Wholegarment knitting machine in 1995, which altered forever the way knitted garments are produced, and which today is used by fashion manufacturers across the world.
The properties of woven and knitted fabrics differ largely due to the path yarn follows in the fabric structure. This path determines the fabric's physical properties, mechanical properties, and appearance. A slight variation to the design may result in entirely different properties for the fabric. Structural Textile Design provides detailed insight on different types of designs used for the production of woven and knitted fabrics, highlighting the effect design has on a fabric's properties and applications. With focus on the techniques used to draw designs and produce them on weaving and knitting machines, this book will be of great interest to textile engineers, professionals and graduate students in textile technology and manufacturing.
This book examines the interplay between trade and the environment, with a focus on the Indian textile sector. While it is often claimed that developed countries' non-tariff trade measures adversely affect the trade prospects of developing countries, establishing that claim systematically is a challenging task. This book examines the dilemma on the basis of various approaches, including a primary survey of different stakeholders and the large-scale modelling of the economy-environment inter-linkages. The interplay between the costs involved in meeting environmental regulations and the potential price-premiums that the cleaner products would get in the international market is analysed in order to assess the future trade prospects for Indian textiles. In addition, the book provides a comprehensive overview of the present scenario of the Indian textile sector. Accordingly, it will be of great interest to researchers, policy makers and graduate students specializing in environmental economics, development economics and international economics.
This authoritative text focuses on the organization and operation of the U.S. textiles and
fashion industry how fashion apparel and accessories are designed, manufactured,
marketed, and distributed. Since the publication of the 1st edition, the textile/apparel
industry has continued to undergo tremendous change. Quick Response strategies have
evolved into supply-chain management, Web-based business-to-business and businessto-
consumer communications and commerce have grown, and mass customization is a
reality. The 4th edition of The Business of Fashion will continue to capture the technological,
organizational, and global changes in this dynamic industry with an emphasis on
A book about fashion, this volume tells the story of the elegant luxury fabrics of Taroni, who since 1880 have produced fabrics of the highest quality, combining craftsmanship, technology, creativity, and experimentation along the way. A detailed account of the company s history is accompanied by lush images as well as interviews and texts from leading creative figures such as Gianfranco Ferre, Roberto Capucci, Alber Elbaz, and other top fashion designers who have worked with Taroni. A virtuous example of Made in Italy where the synergy between technical research and creative work leads to excellent results exported all over the world.
Since 1954, Supima has dedicated itself to offering the world s finest cottons to the global fashion industry. Cross breeding strains to develop a rare extra-long staple fiber, the brand established a new industry standard adopted by designers as well as world-class brands ranging from Lacoste to Brooks Brothers. In parallel to the formalization of the American fashion industry, Supima developed a uniquely American product sought after around the world. Lush photographs of Supima s growing and refining processes, historical images, and fashions from the early twentieth century to today trace the vibrant history of the fiber and contemporary applications. Portfolios and runway photos from established and emerging designers and fashion schools highlight the fiber s enormous range. Photographers from William Helburn to Roe Ethridge captured the trajectory of Supima from AIGA award-wining campaigns to today s collaborations with top designers and industry innovators, like Uniqlo and Casper. Supima: World s Finest Cottons follows a luxury product s journey from humble fields to an integral part in some of the world s most iconic garments.
At the height of the cotton boom, Lancashire had everything going for it. Ample supplies of coal and copious amounts of water from nearby hills were available to power the huge mill engines. High rainfall created exactly the kind of damp atmosphere that was essential for spinning, and an influx of people from rural areas ensured there was a ready workforce. This well written account reveals how three families - the Mannocks, Prockters and Holdens - harnessed these resources in one part of the county and worked together to build a cotton fortune. Using a unique archive of letters found in the attic of a Holden descendent, William Hartley tells the behind-the-scenes story of how the families combined their financial and personal interests - including marriages into the important Stott and Gartside families - to create businesses that succeeded, and which survived longer than many which faltered as the cotton industry went into decline. This revealing account, with its many interesting illustrations, will appeal to anyone interested in the history of the Lancashire cotton industry and the wealth of its families.
'""American Silk, 1830-1930"" is the story of struggle, innovation, and the success and failure of three silk companies. Despite developing innovative technology and marketing strategies to meet the demand for silk from a growing middle class, the early industry was plagued by problems obtaining raw materials; later the development of artificial silk made it hard to compete. This is an important addition to textile, business, and industrial history' - Adrienne Hood, author of ""The Weavers Craft"". 'Silk conjures the exotic, the precious, and the labor of handwork. With this groundbreaking study the little known story of silk joins those of cotton and wool as an important aspect of Americas rich textile heritage. In this masterful work Field, Senechal, and Shaw show us how American entrepreneurial ingenuity made possible large-scale silk production and the creation of a once-thriving industry' - Dennis Fiori, Director, Massachusetts Historical Society. At one time Americas silk industry was the largest in the world. Silk was late to be industrialized, well after cotton and wool. Nonetheless, nineteenth-century American entrepreneurs rapidly built a silk industry with levels of production once unimaginable. ""American Silk, 1830-1930"" traces the evolution of the American silk industry through three compelling and very different case studies: the Nonotuck Silk Company of Northampton, Massachusetts; the Haskell Silk Company of Westbrook, Maine; and the Mallinson Silk Company of New York and Pennsylvania. The mills specialized in different products, from sewing-machine twist and embroidery threads to mass-produced plain silks and high fashion fabrics. The case studies span the development of the U.S. silk industry from its beginnings in the 1830s to its decline in the 1930s. Starting in the 1920s with the growth of rayon, the first of the synthetic imitators, the market share for silk shrank, and silk gradually returned to being a luxury at the top of the hierarchy of fabrics. But, for a time, American technological innovations and entrepreneurs succeeded in bringing the pleasure and aesthetic of silk within the reach of more people than ever before. Jacqueline Field is a former costume curator and professor of textiles and design at Westbrook College. Her recent published articles on dress and textiles include ""Dyes, Chemistry, and Clothing; The Influence of World War One on Fabrics, Fashions, and Silk"". A professor of mathematics and history of science and technology at Smith College, Marjorie Senechal is the author of several books, most recently ""Silk Unraveled!"". Madelyn Shaw curates the Costume and Textile collection at the Rhode Island School of Design Museum. Her most recent publication is ""Silk in Georgia, 1732-1840: From Sericulture to Status Symbol"".
Perry's Department Store: A Buying Simulation, 4th Edition, launches students into the exciting role of being a retail buyer in the fashion industry using a unique simulation approach that takes readers step-by-step through a real-life buying experience. The text is organized into 10 chapters that walk students through the various steps a new buyer would take to complete a six-month buying plan and a merchandise assortment plan for the women's contemporary apparel, junior apparel, women's accessories, men's apparel and accessories, men's contemporary apparel, children's, or home furnishings markets. The fourth edition has been revised with statistical information to reflect a more contemporary structure and business model for a successful department store. The new Perry's Department Store is organized to reflect a larger-scale department store in today's market. Students interact by researching current market and industry trends to build their business. The charts and worksheets in this book and companion website, Perry's Department Store: A Buying Simulation STUDIO, are replicas of those found in the retail and wholesale industry to expose students to the procedures and policies they can expect to find in a first job as an assistant buyer. This new edition and STUDIO launch students directly into the exciting role of a retail buyer in the fashion industry. PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501395307. STUDIO Instant Access can also be purchased or rented separately on BloomsburyFashionCentral.com.
This study provides an overview of how the Bangladeshi leather value chain is organised and governed. It analyses how the leather processing and leather goods/footwear subsectors are integrated into the global market and to what extent informal arrangements including illicit practices are conducive to global market entry. Power relations are dissected along the value chain, in order to analyse how local producers adapt to upholding competitiveness. The results of the work show the need to devise upgrading strategies which pay heed to the reality of informal dynamics in a global value chain (GVC) to improve the local producers' competitiveness. The GVC perspective was combined with considerations on upgrading, subcontracting, middlemen and informality to adequately analyse the complexity of the transactions in the chain. The data of this study are drawn from empirical field studies in Dhaka, Bangladesh and other sections of the international leather value chain during the time period of 2010 to 2014. A qualitative research approach was complemented with quantitative methods.
The role of quality assurance is to ensure that once a specification has been agreed, every product and every production run meets that standard. The Fundamentals of Quality Assurance in the Textile Industry describes how quality professionals in the apparel industry coordinating with overseas factories can ensure excellence. The author explains what tools are required and how to manage products from style conception to finished production and the methods used to track and evaluate samples and production at each stage of the critical path. This book reinforces the concept that quality assurance must become an integral part of the business and details crucial procedures that have been adopted internationally.
Whether we are out on the streets or between the sheets, cotton is our constant companion. But behind this ubiquitous fibre prized for its softness lies a darker story of exploitation and hardship. In this penetrating analysis, Adam Sneyd explores the power politics that envelop cotton as major corporate players and countries across Africa, Asia and the Americas compete to control it. In the aftermath of sweatshop scandal exposes and factory collapse disasters, merchants and retailers have called for `better' cotton farming practices. But in seeking to prevent the next transnational media circus, will companies simply end up cementing business-as-usual? Corporate public relations strategy now competes directly with the voices of an alternative global community that seeks to fundamentally transform the way that cotton is farmed. Yet these demands for cotton to work better for people and the planet have flown under the radar as media attention has focused instead on farmer subsidies and prices. From the local to the global, this book takes the reader on an illuminating journey through the multifaceted and often grubby politics of the fluffy white stuff in the world economy. The pile of political laundry it uncovers is voluminous but, as Sneyd argues, must be aired in the interests of sustainability and development.
SMEs in Indian Textiles examines how globalisation in its transformative influence affects both firms and workers in the developing economies. This book explores the handloom cluster's value chain linkages to examine whether firms in the cluster gained from their association with global buyers over this extended period, and in what ways.
This title explores the means through which the garment industry contributes to industrialisation, poverty reduction, empowerment of undereducated workers, in particular female labourers, and shared growth in contemporary low-income countries.
This book provides an overview of current issues and challenges in the fashion industry and an update on data-driven artificial intelligence (AI) techniques and their potential implementation in response to those challenges. Each chapter starts off with an example of a data-driven AI technique on a particular sector of the fashion industry (design, manufacturing, supply or retailing), before moving on to illustrate its implementation in a real-world application
The cross-cultural usage of a particular cloth type - blueprint - is central to South African cultural history. Known locally as seshoeshoe or isishweshwe, among many other localised names, South African blueprint originated in the Far East and East Asia. Adapted and absorbed by the West, blueprint in Africa was originally associated with trade, coercion, colonisation, Westernisation, religious conversion and even slavery, but residing within its hues and patterns was a resonance that endured. The cloth came to reflect histories of hardship, courage and survival, but it also conveyed the taste and aesthetic predilections of its users, preferences often shared across racial and cultural divides. In its indigenization, isishweshwe has subverted its former history and alien origins and has come to reflect the authority of its users and their culture, conveying resilience, innovation and adaptation and above all a distinctive South Africanness. In this beautifully illustrated book Juliette Leeb-du Toit traces the origins of the cloth, its early usage and cultural adaptations, and its emerging regional, cultural and aesthetic significance. In examining its usage and current national significance, she highlights some of the salient features associated with histories of indigenisation.
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