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This book contains the industrial experiences of 25 years working in various dye house of corporate production houses in India and abroad by the author. It deals in details the various types of fibre dyeing, yarn dyeing, fabric dyeing and garment dyeing with process parameters and dyeing cycle of polyester, cotton, acrylic and viscose dyeing. The main chapters are subdivided into sub chapters dealing with all the details of dyeing. Different machines used for textile dyeing are also included along with diagrams. This book will be interesting for textile degree and diploma students and researchers and supervisors and dyeing head working in various industries. The language used is very simple and easy to grasp.
This book represents a system of theoretically-derived inherent laws of a special type of fibrous assembly, known as yarn. Structural approach has been the basis of this book. Each chapter of this book is started with definitions, terminologies and fundamental relations. Then the theoretical models are presented namely from the initial assumptions through the mathematical derivation to the final relations. Such theoretical results are mostly compared with the experimental results. The topics on yarns include count, twist and diameter, number of fibres in cross-section, retraction and saturated twist, fibre helix, fibre migration, mass unevenness, hairiness, strength, fibre slippage, etc.
In today's highly competitive and global textile market, product quality has become of paramount importance in order to produce high-quality cotton yarns which will in turn produce high quality woven and knitted fabrics and end products, emphasis must be placed on the quality and processing of cotton fibers. This comprehensive guide is a vital tool for anyone interested in increasing the yield and quality of cotton, the world's most popular fiber.
The clothing industry provides employment for 60 million workers worldwide. More than a quarter of these workers are employed in the Asia-Pacific region, where the industry is based on subcontracted production on behalf of international buyers. Rapid movements of manufacturing activity from country to country in search of cost advantages make clothing workers part of a globalizing labour market where they increasingly suffer from job insecurity. This book presents carefully researched case studies which highlight the ways in which labour is informalized, fragmented and made disposable by the globalization of production. Chapters address issues pertaining to rights and citizenship, and new forms of activism and organization in conjunction and coordination with diverse support groups, consumers, and wider global campaigns. Contributors further examine the role of the nation state, government regulatory bodies, as well as independent monitoring systems such as the International Labour Organization. Although there has been considerable effort directed to understanding how firms operate across multiple countries - in studies of the organization of global production networks, and the implications for complexities of scale, (de)territorialization and state development projects - there has been far less focus on how these processes produce precarious labour and reshape worker consciousness. Offering new insights into the understanding and support of workers in the global textile and garment industry, this book will be of interest to academics in a variety of disciplines including Asian Studies, sociology, political economy, development, human rights, labour and gender.
The purpose of this book is mainly to guide new entrants in the textile field who would like to supervise and manage the various processes involved. Chemicals and chemical reactions are not discussed however, as the process parameters and chemicals used vary and this needs to be decided by senior technical personnel. This book does however give general guidelines that are applicable for all and which can be used as a guide for training technical staff. It is not possible to list all the value addition processes practiced worldwide in one book, and hence, an attempt is made to collect details of some of the commonly practiced value addition processes, especially for apparel purposes. The functional treatments given for various technical textiles like medical textiles, protective textiles, industrial textiles, agrotech materials, geotextiles, and sport tech, etc are not covered in this book.
Given the widely-accepted premise that free trade is the best means of maximising overall societal welfare, why has it proven so difficult to achieve in certain industries? This book tackles arguably the most perennial and deep-rooted of all questions in political economy, and questions the incumbent orthodox liberal theories of collective action. Using a historical institutionalist framework to explore and explain the political economy of trade protectionism and liberalization, this book is based on detailed case studies of the textiles and clothing sector in the EU, United States, China, Caribbean Basin and sub-Saharan Africa. From this, the book expands to discuss the origins of trade protectionism and examine the wider political effects of liberalization, offering an explanation of why a successful conclusion to the WTO `Doha' round has proven to be so elusive. The book argues that the regulation of global trade - and the economic consequences that this has for both developed and developing countries - has been the result of the particular way in which trade preferences are mediated through political institutions. The Global Political Economy of Trade Protectionism and Liberalization will be of interest to those studying and researching international and comparative political economy, developing area studies, economics, law and geography.
Apparel manufacturing in the American South, by virtue of its size, its reliance upon female labour, and its broad geographic scope, is an important but often overlooked industry that connects the disparate concerns of women's history, southern cultural history, and labour history. In Striking Beauties, Michelle Haberland examines its essential features and the varied experiences of its workers during the industry's great expansion from the late 1930s through the demise of its southern branch at the end of the twentieth century. The popular conception of the early twentieth-century South as largely agrarian informs many histories of industry and labour in the United States. But as Haberland demonstrates, the apparel industry became a key part of the southern economy after the Great Depression and a major driver of southern industrialization. The gender and racial composition of the workforce, the growth of trade unions, technology, and capital investment were all powerful forces in apparel's migration south. Yet those same forces also revealed the tensions caused by racial and gender inequities not only in the region but in the nation at large. Striking Beauties places the struggles of working women for racial and economic justice in the larger context of southern history. The role of women as the primary consumers of the family placed them in a critical position to influence the success or failure of boycotts, union label programs and ultimately solidarity.
With over 500 step-by-step color photos and instructions in a user-friendly format, Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics is a professional guide to sewing with common knits and stretch fabrics such as jersey and spandex. Czachor explains the basics of working with knit fabrics and stretch woven fabrics, and how the stretch ratio impacts the design. The book covers industry methods for knit garment construction, including coverage of collars, facings, closures, bands and hems, waistline finishes, and pockets within respective chapters on t-shirts, tops and sweaters, dresses, skirts and pants, jackets, activewear, swimwear, and lingerie. The final chapter covers specialty techniques such as finishing details, embellishments, felting, and fabric manipulation. Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics provides all the tools to professionally complete the garments and advance the designer's skill and understanding of the unique properties of knits and stretch wovens. Features - Covers industrial and home sewing machines, overlock machines, and coverstitch machines, plus supplies, needles and threads used to construct knit garments - Learning objectives, Sample Tip and Important boxes, key terms, sample exercises at different levels of complexity, review questions, and designer profiles in each chapter - Includes a Fabric Form template and Sample Checklist to help readers develop their own resource book of sample techniques, swatches of knit, stretch, and stretch woven fabrics Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics STUDIO - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions - Access downloadable files for the patterns used to create the sewing samples throughout the text, the Fabric Form template, and the Sample Checklist Teaching Resources - Instructor's Guide and Test Bank includes sample syllabi, suggested projects, test questions, and evaluation guides PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501316494.
This book discusses the different substrates used in the day to day processing. It gives a treatise on all the common textile substrates - natural and synthetic fibres, yarn and fabric. It includes the chemical structure, manufacturing methods, fundamental properties, physical and chemical characteristics and uses which is very important in designing processing sequences, recipes, processing parameters. Even though the book is written with production personnel in mind, students of textile chemistry and engineering will also find this book useful.
A comprehensive presentation of wicking models developed in academia and industry, Wicking in Porous Materials: Traditional and Modern Modeling Approaches contains some of the most important approaches and methods available, from the traditional Washburn-type models to the latest Lattice-Boltzmann approaches developed during the last few years. It provides a sound conceptual framework for learning the science behind different mathematical models while at the same time being aware of the practical issues of model validation as well as measurement of important properties and parameters associated with various models. Top experts in the field reveal the secrets of their wicking models. The chapters cover the following topics: Wetting and wettability Darcy's law for single- and multi-phase flows Traditional capillary models, such as the Washburn-equation based approaches Unsaturated-flow based methodologies (Richard's Equation) Sharp-front (plug-flow) type approaches using Darcy's law Pore network models for wicking after including various micro-scale fluid-flow phenomena Studying the effect of evaporation on wicking using pore network models Fractal-based methods Modeling methods based on mixture theory Lattice-Boltzmann method for modeling wicking in small scales Modeling wicking in swelling and non-rigid porous media This extensive look at the modeling of porous media compares various methods and treats traditional topics as well as modern technologies. It emphasizes experimental validation of modeling approaches as well as experimental determination of model parameters. Matching models to particular media, the book provides guidance on what models to use and how to use them.
In this holistic approach to the study of textiles and their makers, Colleen Kriger charts the role cotton has played in commercial, community, and labor settings in West Africa. By paying close attention to the details of how people made, exchanged, and wore cotton cloth from before industrialization in Europe to the twentieth century, she is able to demonstrate some of the cultural effects of Africa's long involvement in trading contacts with Muslim societies and with Europe. Cloth in West African History thus offers a fresh perspective on the history of the region and on the local, regional, and global processes that shaped it. A variety of readers will find its account and insights into the African past and culture valuable, and will appreciate the connections made between the local concerns of small-scale weavers in African villages, the emergence of an indigenous textile industry, and its integration into international networks.
Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.
A large number of family businesses operate in the luxury fashion sector which shows their importance as a source of growth, development and social and economic stability. This book analyses how a strategy of innovation in terms of products and processes can offer a competitive advantage to family businesses operating in the luxury fashion sector.
His first job was in a cotton gin at the age of nine. As an octogenarian, A. L. Vandergriff still had not lost his commitment to advancing technology in the industry he loved. ""Ginning Cotton: An Entrepreneur's Story"" offers an opportunity to follow the technological advancements in the ginning and processing industry made by a cotton legend. 'Vandy' developed many of the most revolutionary engineering innovations of this century, and in this volume he explains the technology and the historical context of its development. To know the story of the development of modern cotton ginning, you need to know Vandergriff's story. 'When I started in the gin business in 1937, there were six different companies manufacturing and selling gin equipment. Today, only three remain. I have been Executive Vice-President of one, President of the other, and the third one's main product line is of my design'.
This impressive collection offers the first systematic global and comparative history of textile workers over the course of 350 years. This period covers the major changes in wool and cotton production, and the global picture from pre-industrial times through to the twentieth century. After an introduction, the first part of the book is divided into twenty national studies on textile production over the period 1650-2000. To make them useful tools for international comparisons, each national overview is based on a consistent framework that defines the topics and issues to be treated in each chapter. The countries described have been selected to included the major historic producers of woollen and cotton fabrics, and the diversity of global experience, and include not only European nations, but also Argentina, Brazil, China, Egypt, India, Japan, Mexico, Turkey, Uruguay and the USA. The second part of the book consists of ten comparative papers on topics including globalization and trade, organization of production, space, identity, workplace, institutions, production relations, gender, ethnicity and the textile firm. These are based on the national overviews and additional literature, and will help apply current interdisciplinary and cultural concerns to a subject traditionally viewed largely through a social and economic history lens. Whilst offering a unique reference source for anyone interested in the history of a particular country's textile industry, the true strength of this project lies in its capacity of international comparison. By providing global comparative studies of key textile industries and workers, both geographically and thematically, this book provides a comprehensive and contemporary analysis of a major element of the world's economy. This allows historians to challenge many of the received ideas about globalization, for instance, highlighting how global competition for lower production costs is by no means a uniquely modern issue, and has b
Textiles have been a highly valued and central part of the politics of human societies across culture divides and over millennia. The economy of textiles provides insight into the fabric of social relations, local and global politics, and diverse ideologies. Textiles are a material element of society that fosters the study of continuities and disjunctions in the economic and social realities of past and present societies. From stick-loom weaving to transnational factories, the production of cloth and its transformation into clothing and other woven goods offers a way to study the linkages between economics and politics. The volume is oriented around a number of themes: textile production, textiles as trade goods, textiles as symbols, textiles in tourism, and textiles in the transnational processes. Textile Economies appeals to a broad range of scholars interested in the intersection of material culture, political economy, and globalization, such as archaeologists, cultural anthropologists, economists, museum curators, and historians.
This user-friendly guide to evaluating apparel quality presents the roles of product designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, testing laboratories, and retailers from product inception through the sale of goods, to ensure quality products that meet customer expectations. Bubonia provides an overview of apparel production, with emphasis on quality characteristics and cues, consumer influences and motivations impacting purchasing decisions, and the relationship of apparel manufacturing and production processes, cost, price point and the quality level of an apparel product. A key aspect of the book is the focus on both U.S. and International standards and regulations required for apparel analysis, performance, labeling requirements and safety regulations. The text is highly illustrated with images of stitch and seam types plus photos of their uses in actual garments, providing students with the tools needed to skillfully evaluate and critique quality elements in apparel and textile products. Key Features ~ Supplementary Apparel Quality Lab Manual (sold separately) includes hands-on lab activities and projects that simulate real-world garment analysis and material testing ~ Industry Scenario boxes present case studies highlight real world situations such as the Lululemon recall and the environmental impact of apparel manufacturing ~ Provides an illustrated guide to ASTM stitch and seam types Teaching Resources ~ Instructor's Guide with Test Bank ~ PowerPoint presentations for each chapter PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501395338. STUDIO Instant Access can also be purchased or rented separately on BloomsburyFashionCentral.com.
With the economy struggling, there has been much discussion about the effects of deindustrialization on American manufacturing. While the steel and auto industries have taken up most of the spotlight, the textile and apparel industries have been profoundly affected. In Empty Mills, Timothy Minchin provides the first book length study of how both industries have suffered since WWII and the unwavering efforts of industry supporters to prevent that decline. In 1985, the textile industry accounted for one in eight manufacturing jobs, and unlike the steel and auto industries, more than fifty percent of the workforce was women or minorities. In the last four decades over two million jobs have been lost in the textile and apparel industries alone as more and more of the manufacturing moves overseas. Impeccably well researched, providing information on both the history and current trends, Empty Mills will be of importance to anyone interested in economics, labor, the social historical, as well as the economic significance of the decline of one of America's biggest industries.
The cotton processing industry is a distinct sector of China's rural economy which recently underwent a momentous transition from plan to market. China is the world's largest producer as well as consumer of cotton, and cotton processing links the agricultural production of this important commodity to China's booming textile industry. Alpermann examines the political economy of the cotton processing industry, analyzes the process of cotton policy making and discusses reform outcomes on a national scale and the central state's response. He then goes on to examine the implementation of economic transformation and institutional change in two traditional cotton-growing regions, looking at how local governments and the former monopolist cope with the changes brought about by marketization. Studying the cotton industry provides a lens through which to observe the changes in the way the state governs the economy during China's transition and helps to assess the diverging claims about the nature of the political economy in China. As such China's Cotton Industry is an essential read for anyone studying Chinese business, econmics or politics.
"The Cotton Dust Papers" is the story of the 50-year struggle for recognition in the U.S. of this pernicious occupational disease. The authors contend that byssinosis could have and should have been recognized much sooner, as a great deal was known about the disease as early as the 1930s. Using mostly primary sources, the authors explore three instances from the 1930s to the 1960s in which evidence suggested the existence of brown lung in the mills, yet nothing was done. What the story of byssinosis makes clear is that the economic and political power of private owners and managers can hinder and shape the work of health investigators.
Using the findings from data analysis of fifty-one developing countries, this bookanalyses several national and international factors that have resulted in uneven development of the textiles and clothing industry inthe developing world. The findings are further substantiated by case studies of major players in this industry, such as India and China. While international trade rules have played a critical role in the growth of the textiles and clothing industry, country- and industry-specific policies and capacity building initiatives have also resulted in the present scenarioin several countries. There is no common recipe for all developing countries for sustaining market share in the domestic and international markets.Regional and local factors need to be taken into consideration while formulating policies for the industry.
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