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Using the findings from data analysis of fifty-one developing countries, this bookanalyses several national and international factors that have resulted in uneven development of the textiles and clothing industry inthe developing world. The findings are further substantiated by case studies of major players in this industry, such as India and China. While international trade rules have played a critical role in the growth of the textiles and clothing industry, country- and industry-specific policies and capacity building initiatives have also resulted in the present scenarioin several countries. There is no common recipe for all developing countries for sustaining market share in the domestic and international markets.Regional and local factors need to be taken into consideration while formulating policies for the industry.
"The Clean Clothes Campaign is a worldwide movement that aims to improve the wages and conditions of sweatshop workers. This is the story of their struggle. Large retailers such as Tesco, Walmart and Carrefour lure shoppers in with prices that seem too good to be true. This book shows that they're too good to be fair. All along the industry's supply chain, workers, often children, are exploited through poverty wages, unpaid overtime and harsh anti-union measures. The campaign urges those in charge of the garment industry's supply lines to protect their workers and treat them fairly. This dynamic account of direct engagement by concerned consumers is a must read for those that see globalization differently and want their shopping choices to support the most vulnerable people involved in the clothing industry"--Publisher description.
The 18th-century French leather industry was a strategically important manufacturing sector, one vital to both civilian and military life. This study examines the production of leather in the Bordeaux trades during the 18th and 19th centuries, illuminating the realities of a craft economy and its relation to the wider French political economy.
First published in 1988. This collection of essays examines aspects of labour and industrial relations history in the textiles sector of Northern England during the mature phase of industrialisation before World War One and the period of retrenchment during the interwar economic recession. There are chapters on wool, worsted, silk, cotton spinning and weaving, and cotton finishing. The volume includes contributions by historians interested in employers' organisations and management strategies, labour, trade union and women's history. As such it provides a broader framework in which relationships between capital and labour are analysed. The book also incorporates some of the recent research on particularly neglected areas of social history, most notably on women workers and on the industrial relations policies of employers in textiles.
Vi?t Nam is home to more than 50 ethnic minorities-such as the Cham and Thai-many of which have distinctive clothing and weaving traditions linked to antiquity. The tight-fitting tunic called ao dai, widely recognized as a national symbol, has its roots in the country's 2,000-year history of textiles. Beginning with silk production in the Bronze Age cultures of the Red River, this book covers textiles in Vi?t Nam-including bark-cloth, kapok and hemp-through the centuries of Chinese rule in the north, a number of independent feudal societies and the brief period of French colonial rule.
Karen Pastorello\u2019s pathbreaking study is the first biography of Bessie Abramowitz Hillman and the first scholarship to place this remarkable leader at the center of the founding of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America. Bridging the gap between progressive-era social feminists and labor feminists of the postwar era, Hillman worked to end race and class injustice and improve the quality of life for working women, even as she was overshadowed by her husband, union leader Sidney Hillman. Interweaving Hillman\u2019s experiences as an Eastern European Jewish immigrant with a rich historical account of the founding and development of a key garment union, Pastorello reveals the prominent role of women labor activists both in the workplace and in the unions.
Sustainability is an issue that increasingly concerns all those involved in the apparel industry, including textile manufacturers, apparel designers, retailers and consumers. This important book covers recent advances and novel technologies in the key areas of production, processing and recycling of apparel. Part One addresses sustainable finishing and dyeing processes for textiles. The first two chapters concentrate on the environmental impact of fabric finishing, including water consumption, emissions and waste management. Further chapters focus on plasma and enzymatic treatments for sustainable textile processing, and the potential for improving the sustainability of dyeing technologies. Part Two covers issues of design, retail and recycling, and includes discussions of public attitudes towards sustainability in fashion, methods of measuring apparel sustainability and social trends in the re-use of apparel.
This book explores the long-term forces shaping business attitudes in the British and American cotton industries from the eighteenth to the twentieth century. Mary Rose traces social, political and developmental differences from the early stages of industrialization. She demonstrates how firms become embedded in networks, and evolve according to business values and strategies. The book examines local and regional networks, the changing competitive environment, community characteristics and national differences. Rose's findings challenge traditional views with new evidence that the character and achievements of each industry uniquely reflect local circumstances and historical experience. This is a critical synthesis of the multidisciplinary literature on the cotton textile industries of two major industrial nations and a study of the changing forces influencing decision making. An important contribution to comparative business history, this book will be of interest to graduates and scholars in all areas of business and economic history.
This monograph critically reviews recent research work and developments in physical and related properties of ramie, a long vegetable bast fibre. The properties of the fibre at different stages of plant growth including topography, optical microscopy, electron microscopy, moisture regain, density, strength, tenacity, fineness and mechanical properties as well as thermal, infrared, FTIR and X-ray properties are discussed.
Cotton textiles were the first good to achieve a truly global
reach. For many centuries muslins and calicoes from the Indian
subcontinent were demanded in the trading worlds of the Indian
Ocean and the eastern Mediterranean. After 1500, new circuits of
exchange were developed. Of these, the early-modern European craze
for Indian calicoes and the huge nineteenth-century export trade in
Lancashire goods, and subsequent deindustrialization of the Indian
subcontinent, are merely the best known. These episodes, although
of great importance, far from exhaust the story of cotton. They are
well known because of the enormous research energy that has been
devoted to them, but other important elements of cotton's long
history are deserving of similar attention.
Interest in the topic of governance and interfirm relationships in the Ethiopian leather and leather products industry was developed after observing a gap in the literature on value chain research at the international level and finding only a few empirical studies on value chains at the local level. Most of the value chain research conducted throughout the world are either too general or are simply functionalistic and, thus, fail to address the socio-cultural context. This study contributes to the literature in several ways: firstly, the present research suggests that a central focus of value chain analysis should be the examination of social networks within local, but also global, value chains, as social relations might play an important and so far neglected role in the struggle to participate in the rapidly changing world economy. Secondly, as a clear departure from mainstream value chain research, this study makes use of a mixture of value chain and network approaches for exploring processes and micro-level interactions used by individuals to construct and maintain networks.
The changing patterns of production and trade in fibres, textiles and clothing provide a classic case study of the dynamics of our interdependent world economy. For centuries Asia supplied the textile factories of Europe with natural fibres, including silk from East Asia exports virtually no natural fibres and instead is the world's most important exporter of manufactured textile products and chief importer of fibres. New Silk Roads, first published in 1992, demonstrates that despite the import barriers erected by advanced economies, textiles and clothing production continues to serve as an engine of growth for developing economies seeking to export their way out of poverty. This book is based on selected papers given at a conference which discussed East Asia's role in world fibre, textile and clothing markets. It draws on trade and development theory as well as on historical evidence to trace the development of these changing markets, which are now dominated by the newly industrialized economies of Korea, Taiwan and Hong Kong and, increasingly, China and Thailand.
Drawing upon an impressive range of international sources, this book explores the late-nineteenth century partnership between Bradford worsted manufacturers the Briggs brothers and the German merchant Ernst Posselt, and their subsequent foreign direct investment in a modern factory and workers' community at Marki, near Warsaw in Poland. Protectionism and increasing foreign competition are discussed, among many complex economic pressures on British industry, as likely catalysts for this enterprise and the general historiography of the Polish lands is explored to reveal a climate of extraordinary opportunity for well-capitalised foreign industrialists in this period. British, Polish and German press and archival documents, as well as Russian police and factory inspectors' reports reveal the everyday experience of Polish factory workers and British consular correspondence provides fascinating insight into the machinations of the entrepreneurs and Warsaw's cosmopolitan business community. Through the development and domination of market and raw materials sources, this venture is shown to have monopolised worsted manufacture in the Russian Empire, using state of the art technology to create, and modern marketing techniques to promote, its product range and evolving image. Marki was described in 1886 as 'a second edition of Saltaire' and latterly as 'the Polish Bournville or Port Sunlight', thus aspects of British and Polish social history are compared to assess the efficacy of introducing the model-community concept, in combination with a radical employment policy, to less industrially-developed Poland. The experiences of an expatriate community of skilled Yorkshire foremen and their instrumentality in diffusing British industrial technology throughout the Russian Empire are described. Against a backdrop of political instability and social upheaval, which dramatically impacted on business behaviour after 1905 and particularly during the interwar period of
This book examines the decline of the cotton textiles industry, which defined Britain as an industrial nation, from its peak in the late nineteenth century to the state of the industry at the end of the twentieth century. Focusing on the owners and managers of cotton businesses, the authors examine how they mobilised financial resources; their attitudes to industry structure and technology; and their responses to the challenges posed by global markets. The origins of the problems which forced the industry into decline are not found in any apparent loss of competitiveness during the long nineteenth century but rather in the disastrous reflotation after the First World War. As a consequence of these speculations, rationalisation and restructuring became more difficult at the time when they were most needed, and government intervention led to a series of partial solutions to what became a process of protracted decline. In the post-1945 period, the authors show how government policy encouraged capital withdrawal rather than encouraging the investment needed for restructuring. The examples of corporate success since the Second World War - such as David Alliance and his Viyella Group - exploited government policy, access to capital markets, and closer relationships with retailers, but were ultimately unable to respond effectively to international competition and the challenges of globalisation. A new introduction and epilogue provide an updated framework for the chapters in this book, which were originally published in Business History and Accounting, Business and Financial History
In the woollen industry's heyday Gloucestershire had over 200 mills, producing cloth which was transported to markets all over the world: to Europe, Hudson's Bay, India; it clothed the British Army and was used for coronations and even the Pope's robes. The author's previous and much-consulted work, Gloucestershire Woollen Mills, has long been out of print, making the time ripe for a fresh appraisal of this fascinating period in history. Wool & Water traces the origins of the water-powered industry from the late twelfth century to its demise, with two mills remaining in the twentieth century. Themes discussed include the organisation of the `domestic' industry until the mid-eighteenth century; the development of the factory; fluctuations in trade and, finally, competition from Yorkshire. Containing previously unpublished material and unique illustrations from private collections, plus a comprehensive gazetteer of the county's textile mill sites, Wool & Water is the ideal book for those interested in the industrial heritage of Gloucestershire.
The eighth edition of this industry standard for textile terminology is fully revised and expanded featuring approximately 100 new entries and over 14,000 definitions of fibers, fabrics, laws and regulations affecting textile materials and processing, inventors of textile technology, and business and trade terms relevant to textiles. Trademark information has been thoroughly updated to reflect the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office's Trademark Electronic Search System (TESS), and current definitions from the industry associations American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists and American Society for Testing and Materials are included. Fully illustrated with over 400 photographs and line drawings, entries include pronunciation, derivation, definition, and uses. An extensive appendix provides a list of national and internationalindustry associations and organizations. From Abaca to Zyex, The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles contains essential reference information for professionals and scholars involved in the textile industry.
Advances in Women's Intimate Apparel Technology discusses the design and manufacture of intimate apparel and how the industry is increasingly embracing novel materials, new technologies, and innovations in sizing and fit. The book reviews the ways in which new materials and methods are improving the range, function, and quality of intimate apparel, with particular focus on brassiere design. Part One introduces the advanced materials used for intimate apparel, including novel fabrics and dyes and finishes, along with materials for wiring and embellishments. Part Two discusses the role of seamless technology in intimate apparel production, covering lamination, moulding, and seamless knitting. Finally, Part Three reviews advances in design, fit, and performance.
Despite increasing academic interest in both the study of masculinity and the history of consumption, there are still few published studies that bring together both concerns. By investigating the changing nature of the retailing of menswear, this book illuminates wider aspects of masculine identity as well as patterns of male consumption between the years 1880 and 1939. While previous historical studies of masculinity have focused overwhelmingly on the moral, spiritual and physical characteristics associated with notions of 'manliness', this book considers the relationship between men and activities which were widely considered to be at least potentially 'unmanly' - selling, as well as buying clothes - thus shedding new light on men's lives and identities in this period.
Revised to keep up with the quickly evolving landscape of the fashion industry, the fifth edition of this authoritative text offers updated information on the design, manufacturing, marketing, and distribution of fashion products within a global context. Research-based content provides insight on the organization and operation of textiles, apparel, accessories, and home fashion companies, as well as the effect of technological, organizational, and global changes on every area of the business. Updated discussions of technologies, corporate social responsibility, and sustainable practices are incorporated throughout the text. New to this Edition - Features a new Chapter 2 Global Fashion Supply/Value Chain and expanded section on global sourcing in Chapter 11 Sourcing Decisions and Production Centers - New chapter case studies give students a chance to think critically and apply the chapter concepts - Integrates corporate responsibility and sustainability throughout this edition - Highlights the roles of emerging technologies from 3D technologies in fashion design to omnichannel technologies in fashion retail The Business of Fashion STUDIO - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions Teaching Resources - Instructor's Guide with projects, case studies, and test questions connected to the knowledge and skill guidelines in the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business (AACSB) standards. - PowerPoint presentations to frame lectures. PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the Paperback + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501315282 or the eBook + STUDIO instant access bundle ISBN 9781501315275.
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