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This is the first full-length history of the Scottish cotton industry, from its beginnings in the late eighteenth century to its premature decline in the years leading up to the First World War. The book examines the industry chronologically and through themes such as precursors, technology, capital and employers, markets, labour and work, placed within their broader economic and scoial contexts. Its account of the cotton industry is set within important historiographical debates such as proto-industrialisation, the speed of industrial change, the diffusion of technology, the labour process, paternalism, workplace control, entrepreneurship and theories of industrial decline. Cotton was Scotland's premier industry during the Industrial Revolution and this book will be wlecomed by specialists, students and interested readers alike. -- .
Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel takes a close look at the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear. Implementing materials, performance, technology, and design and marketing, the book examines this rapidly emerging textile market and outlines future directions and growing trends. The book begins by explaining how a comfort-driven focus has led the industry to embrace knitted fabric as a popular choice of constructional material. Using examples of leading brands, it outlines the basic terminology, structural details, and essential properties appropriate for performance apparel, especially for sportswear. This book describes the differences between woven and knitted structures, provides an understanding of fabric behavior and the characteristics of a functional garment, and outlines the importance of garment fit and consumer perception of garment comfort in its design and development. The authors present key research outcomes on the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear that explore smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. They consider the use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel product development; highlight the widely used fiber types for sportswear and the importance of fiber blends and their performance, and discuss the relevance of fabric structure and its interaction with the human body. The book also presents research on moisture management and temperature regulation and analyzes the performance and development of smart sportswear intended for monitoring health and performance for a range of end uses. A definitive guide detailing the future of functional clothing and sportswear, this book: Describes how to design and develop functional clothing for sportswear Reflects current research outcomes and industry requirements Clarifies with visual illustration, practical examples, and case studies an understanding of techniques and concepts Explores specifics of garment design such as fit, shape, function, fashion and design Focuses on a commitment to designing ethical and sustainable products
Vi?t Nam is home to more than 50 ethnic minorities-such as the Cham and Thai-many of which have distinctive clothing and weaving traditions linked to antiquity. The tight-fitting tunic called ao dai, widely recognized as a national symbol, has its roots in the country's 2,000-year history of textiles. Beginning with silk production in the Bronze Age cultures of the Red River, this book covers textiles in Vi?t Nam-including bark-cloth, kapok and hemp-through the centuries of Chinese rule in the north, a number of independent feudal societies and the brief period of French colonial rule.
This monograph critically reviews recent research work and developments in physical and related properties of ramie, a long vegetable bast fibre. The properties of the fibre at different stages of plant growth including topography, optical microscopy, electron microscopy, moisture regain, density, strength, tenacity, fineness and mechanical properties as well as thermal, infrared, FTIR and X-ray properties are discussed.
This book focuses on the home textiles market and its products such as furnishings, floor coverings, carpets, curtains and draperies, living room furnishings, bed linens, kitchen linens, hospital linens, towels etc. The book discusses latest developments and future prospectus in the home textile industry. This book is useful for textile and fashion technology students, researchers, industry and textile engineers.
Revised to keep up with the quickly evolving landscape of the fashion industry, the fifth edition of this authoritative text offers updated information on the design, manufacturing, marketing, and distribution of fashion products within a global context. Research-based content provides insight on the organization and operation of textiles, apparel, accessories, and home fashion companies, as well as the effect of technological, organizational, and global changes on every area of the business. Updated discussions of technologies, corporate social responsibility, and sustainable practices are incorporated throughout the text. New to this Edition - Features a new Chapter 2 Global Fashion Supply/Value Chain and expanded section on global sourcing in Chapter 11 Sourcing Decisions and Production Centers - New chapter case studies give students a chance to think critically and apply the chapter concepts - Integrates corporate responsibility and sustainability throughout this edition - Highlights the roles of emerging technologies from 3D technologies in fashion design to omnichannel technologies in fashion retail The Business of Fashion STUDIO - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions Teaching Resources - Instructor's Guide with projects, case studies, and test questions connected to the knowledge and skill guidelines in the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business (AACSB) standards. - PowerPoint presentations to frame lectures. PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the Paperback + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501315282 or the eBook + STUDIO instant access bundle ISBN 9781501315275.
First published in 1988. This collection of essays examines aspects of labour and industrial relations history in the textiles sector of Northern England during the mature phase of industrialisation before World War One and the period of retrenchment during the interwar economic recession. There are chapters on wool, worsted, silk, cotton spinning and weaving, and cotton finishing. The volume includes contributions by historians interested in employers' organisations and management strategies, labour, trade union and women's history. As such it provides a broader framework in which relationships between capital and labour are analysed. The book also incorporates some of the recent research on particularly neglected areas of social history, most notably on women workers and on the industrial relations policies of employers in textiles.
The 18th-century French leather industry was a strategically important manufacturing sector, one vital to both civilian and military life. This study examines the production of leather in the Bordeaux trades during the 18th and 19th centuries, illuminating the realities of a craft economy and its relation to the wider French political economy.
Production and quality can be significantly impacted if improper selection or inadequate maintenance of temperature and humidity measures. Based on the authors 38 years in the textile industry, this book explains the principles adopted in different humidification plants and their adoption. The author translates his experience working as technician dealing with the problems of humidification it into a comprehensive, authoritative guide.
Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.
Sustainability is an issue that increasingly concerns all those involved in the apparel industry, including textile manufacturers, apparel designers, retailers and consumers. This important book covers recent advances and novel technologies in the key areas of production, processing and recycling of apparel. Part One addresses sustainable finishing and dyeing processes for textiles. The first two chapters concentrate on the environmental impact of fabric finishing, including water consumption, emissions and waste management. Further chapters focus on plasma and enzymatic treatments for sustainable textile processing, and the potential for improving the sustainability of dyeing technologies. Part Two covers issues of design, retail and recycling, and includes discussions of public attitudes towards sustainability in fashion, methods of measuring apparel sustainability and social trends in the re-use of apparel.
In the later 19th century, French-Canadian Roman Catholic immigrants from Quebec were deemed a threat to the United States, potential terrorists in service of the Pope. Books and newspapers floated the conspiracy theory that the immigrants seeking work in New England's burgeoning textile industry were actually plotting to annex parts of the United States to a newly independent Quebec. Vermette's groundbreaking study sets this neglected and poignant tale in the broader context of North American history. He traces individuals and families, from the textile barons who created a new industry to the poor farmers and laborers of Quebec who crowded into the mills in the post-Civil War period. Vermette discusses the murky reception these cross-border immigrants met in the USA, including dehumanizing conditions in mill towns and early-20th-century campaigns led by the Ku Klux Klan and the Eugenics movement. Vermette also discusses what occurred when the textile industry moved to the Deep South and brings the story of emigrants up to the present day. Vermette shows how this little-known episode in U.S. history prefigures events as recent as yesterday's news. His well documented narrative touches on the issues of cross-border immigration; the Nativists fear of the Other; the rise and fall of manufacturing in the U.S.; and the construction of race and ethnicity.
The changing patterns of production and trade in fibres, textiles and clothing provide a classic case study of the dynamics of our interdependent world economy. For centuries Asia supplied the textile factories of Europe with natural fibres, including silk from East Asia exports virtually no natural fibres and instead is the world's most important exporter of manufactured textile products and chief importer of fibres. New Silk Roads, first published in 1992, demonstrates that despite the import barriers erected by advanced economies, textiles and clothing production continues to serve as an engine of growth for developing economies seeking to export their way out of poverty. This book is based on selected papers given at a conference which discussed East Asia's role in world fibre, textile and clothing markets. It draws on trade and development theory as well as on historical evidence to trace the development of these changing markets, which are now dominated by the newly industrialized economies of Korea, Taiwan and Hong Kong and, increasingly, China and Thailand.
Drawing upon an impressive range of international sources, this book explores the late-nineteenth century partnership between Bradford worsted manufacturers the Briggs brothers and the German merchant Ernst Posselt, and their subsequent foreign direct investment in a modern factory and workers' community at Marki, near Warsaw in Poland. Protectionism and increasing foreign competition are discussed, among many complex economic pressures on British industry, as likely catalysts for this enterprise and the general historiography of the Polish lands is explored to reveal a climate of extraordinary opportunity for well-capitalised foreign industrialists in this period. British, Polish and German press and archival documents, as well as Russian police and factory inspectors' reports reveal the everyday experience of Polish factory workers and British consular correspondence provides fascinating insight into the machinations of the entrepreneurs and Warsaw's cosmopolitan business community. Through the development and domination of market and raw materials sources, this venture is shown to have monopolised worsted manufacture in the Russian Empire, using state of the art technology to create, and modern marketing techniques to promote, its product range and evolving image. Marki was described in 1886 as 'a second edition of Saltaire' and latterly as 'the Polish Bournville or Port Sunlight', thus aspects of British and Polish social history are compared to assess the efficacy of introducing the model-community concept, in combination with a radical employment policy, to less industrially-developed Poland. The experiences of an expatriate community of skilled Yorkshire foremen and their instrumentality in diffusing British industrial technology throughout the Russian Empire are described. Against a backdrop of political instability and social upheaval, which dramatically impacted on business behaviour after 1905 and particularly during the interwar period of
How do retailers decide which colors and styles are featured in their stores? What factors influence the patterns, textiles and silhouettes designers show in their collections? These choices are all made with the help of fashion forecasting-a dynamic industry that identifies the trends that influence what people will be wearing in the future. This text provides students with a comprehensive understanding of the forecasting process, from studying fashion innovation and cultural influences to conducting consumer research, exploring how to identify the who, what, where, when and why driving fashion change in our lives. New co-author Divita has revised the structure of each chapter to streamline content and improve the flow of information while discussing timely examples and industry applications. Ultimately, students will learn how to prepare and present their own fashion forecast. Features - Includes 150 color photographs showing current examples - Industry Profiles illustrate the types of job opportunities that exist for students and ground theoretical concepts in real-world application - End-of-chapter summaries, activities, and discussion questions engage students in creative application of concepts New to this Edition - New Chapter 5, "Popular Culture and Forecasting", connects the influence of television, music, movies and social media to the rise of trends - Thoroughly updated Chapter 4, now entitled "Modern Forecasting Methods", features current forecasters such as Trend Tablet, Perclers Paris, and Nelly Rodi Lab - New You Be The Forecaster feature allows students to apply the skills in each chapter in scenarios that simulate real-world career situations Fashion Forecasting STUDIO - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary - Watch videos that bring chapter concepts to life Teaching Resources - Instructor's Guide with Test Bank provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, supplemental assignments, lecture notes, and sample test questions. - PowerPoint (R) presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501313172. STUDIO Instant Access can also be purchased or rented separately on BloomsburyFashionCentral.com.
The book provides detailed analysis of the thermal comfort assessment of clothing as the basis for developing standards. It discusses general thermal regulation of humans, the thermal protective role of clothing as the way of modelling heat transfer from the body, and the importance of globally accepted test methods and standards to improve quality. New materials necessitate the need for standards improvement and update. The book promotes instruments, methods, implementation of unified specifications, and the definition of standards so that a clear quality management system can be established, for both production systems and testing methods.
Channel 4's The Mill captivated viewers with the tales of the lives of the young girls and boys in a northern mill. Focusing on the lives of the apprentices at Quarry Bank Mill, David Hanson's book uses a wealth of first-person source material including letters, diaries, mill records, to tell the stories of the children who lived and worked at Quarry Bank throughout the nineteenth century. This book perfectly accompanies the television series, satisfying viewers' curiosity about the history of the children of Quarry Bank. It reveals the real lives of the television series' main characters: Esther, Daniel, Lucy and Susannah, showing how shockingly close to the truth the dramatisation is. But the book also goes far beyond this to create a full and vivid picture of factory life in the industrial revolution. David Hanson has written an accessible narrative history of Victorian working children and the conditions in which they worked.
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