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This student lab manual reinforces the chapter content and lecture material from Apparel Quality, but may also be used as a standalone product in conjunction with another apparel quality textbook. With more than 30 hands-on lab activities and projects to enhance learning, the lab manual offers a greater understanding of quality issues that arise with apparel production and end use. Designed for courses that emphasize textile testing or offer a laboratory component, Apparel Quality Lab Manual includes supply lists; extensive reference tables; assignments for analyzing products, testing and evaluating materials and garments; project sheets for product comparison testing; worksheets to record data; directions for mounting specimens after testing; and templates for cutting specimens. Students will be actively engaged in their learning and participate in determining the quality level of apparel products, allowing them to simulate how apparel products are analyzed in the industry.
This book provides an overview of current issues and challenges in the fashion industry and an update on data-driven artificial intelligence (AI) techniques and their potential implementation in response to those challenges. Each chapter starts off with an example of a data-driven AI technique on a particular sector of the fashion industry (design, manufacturing, supply or retailing), before moving on to illustrate its implementation in a real-world application
The cross-cultural usage of a particular cloth type - blueprint - is central to South African cultural history. Known locally as seshoeshoe or isishweshwe, among many other localised names, South African blueprint originated in the Far East and East Asia. Adapted and absorbed by the West, blueprint in Africa was originally associated with trade, coercion, colonisation, Westernisation, religious conversion and even slavery, but residing within its hues and patterns was a resonance that endured. The cloth came to reflect histories of hardship, courage and survival, but it also conveyed the taste and aesthetic predilections of its users, preferences often shared across racial and cultural divides. In its indigenization, isishweshwe has subverted its former history and alien origins and has come to reflect the authority of its users and their culture, conveying resilience, innovation and adaptation and above all a distinctive South Africanness. In this beautifully illustrated book Juliette Leeb-du Toit traces the origins of the cloth, its early usage and cultural adaptations, and its emerging regional, cultural and aesthetic significance. In examining its usage and current national significance, she highlights some of the salient features associated with histories of indigenisation.
This is the first work on British textile exports to South America during the nineteenth century. During this period, textiles ranked among the most important manufactures traded in the world market and Britain was the foremost producer. Thanks to new data, this book demonstrates that British exports to South America were transacted at very high rates during the first decades after independence. This development was due to improvements in the packing of textiles; decreasing costs of production and introduction of free trade in Britain; falling ocean freight rates, marine insurance and import duties in South America; dramatic improvements in communications; and the introduction of better port facilities. Manuel Llorca-Jana explores the marketing chain of textile exports to South America and sheds light on South Americans' consumer behaviour. This book contains the most comprehensive database on Anglo-South American trade during the nineteenth century and fills an important gap in the historiography.
While the topic of sustainability in textile manufacture has been the subject of considerable research, much of this is limited to a focus on materials and practices and their ecological impact. Padovani and Whittaker offer a unique exploration of the textile industry in Europe from the perspective of social sustainability, shifting the focus from the materiality of textile production to the industry's relationships with the communities from which the products originate. Featuring six in-depth case studies from design entrepreneurs, artisans and textile businesses around Europe, from Harris Tweed in Scotland to luxury woollen mills in Italy, Sustainability and the Social Fabric explores how new centres of textile manufacturing have emerged from the economic decline in 2008, responding creatively and producing socially inclusive approaches to textile production. Case studies each represent a different approach to social sustainability and are supported by interviews with industry leaders and comparisons to the global textile industry. Demonstrating how some companies are rebuilding the local social fabric to encourage consumer participation through education, enterprise, health and wellbeing, the book suggests innovative business models that are economically successful and also, in turn, support wider societal issues.
This book comprehensively reviews, as well as analyzes, various aspects related to the Indian textile and apparel industries. While the focus is on economic and environmental issues, the discussion covers a lot of policy elements. The approach is inter-disciplinary, with concepts drawn from economics, environmental science, history, chemistry, textile technology and quantitative methods/optimization literature. This book will appeal to several stakeholders such as, policy researchers, policy-makers in governmental and international agencies, academicians and students from all the disciplines mentioned above, industrialists, managers and consultants working on Indian textile and apparel sectors. It might also provoke interest among as well as agriculturalists, farm policy analysts and industrialists focusing on other products such as chemicals, plastics, machineries, etc., who are wholly or partly dependent on textile and apparel industry in India.
In Search of the World's Finest Wools is a photographic search around the world to find the finest wools available and to meet the dedicated people who care for the animals and harvest the raw wool. From this precious commodity comes the unsurpassed wools used around the world. An ethnographic marriage of stunning imagery and authoritative text, this book reveals the nature of the animals, the lives of the farmers and nomadic shepherds that care for them, and the cultures and traditions that have enriched wool-producing societies for centuries, including the use of wool in traditional costume and for utility. In Search of the World's Finest Wools explores these wool-producing regions: *Greenland - Qiviut, the wool of the musk ox.From the stone age comes the rarest and most precious of all wools, a wool 'so subtle with qualities somewhere between the lustre of silk and the softness of cashmere' and a thermal quality eight times that of sheep's wool; *Mongolia - Cashmere goat wool, a wool of 'incomparable lightness and softness, yet with an unmatched body and warmth' and a domesticated history dating to 9,000 BCE; *Kyrgyzstan - Taewit goat wool, the product of a cross of the Kyrgyz goat with the Orenburg cashmere goat, discovered by the wider world only after the fall of the USSR; *Ladakh - Pashmina goat wool, the 'prince among Oriental wools' produced by goats that prefer life at 16,000 feet (5,000 m); *Scotland - Shetland sheep wool, its fine guard hairs, the product of 250 days of coastal wind and rain, give superior thermal, wind and moisture resistance; *Australia & New Zealand - Merino sheep wool, the finest and 'most noble of all wool breeds', the high-maintenance sheep produces the finest of all wools with a fibre as little as 11 microns in diameter; *South Africa - Mohair goat wool, not as fine as other wools but its structure gives it softness, strength, elasticity (no creases), and unparalleled lustre; *Peru - Vicuna wool, once the exclusive preserve of the Inca emperor, almost hunted to extinction in the 1960s, the 'princess of the Andes' produces wool that outranks Musk ox and cashmere. People have used wool in a surprising number of ways for thousands of years, though primarily to keep warm or protect their skin from the sun. The world's wool-producing societies have deep connections to their animals, and anyone who works with wool holds it in the highest esteem for its beautiful practicality. In Search of the World's Finest Wools is an excellent choice for tailors, knitters, weavers, rug purchasers, travellers and anyone interested in wool crafts, ethnography and culture.
Little Germany takes us back to the nineteenth century, when Bradford, West Yorkshire, was the wool capital of the world. Over the centuries, Germany and Great Britain have been close trading partners. When Bradford became renowned for its rapidly expanding textile trade, prosperous German wool merchants entered the country and many of them settled in Bradford. These men, comparatively few in number but with great determination, influenced Bradford's markets with their knowledge of commerce and philanthropic culture. They were merchants who left their mark, men who built the palatial warehouses in Little Germany. At the beginning of the Industrial Revolution and throughout the nineteenth century, cottage industries had given way to industrialisation and factories replaced traditional production. Bradford grew from a country market town into an industrial city, with smoke-blackened buildings and a polluted landscape. It was a city of great wealth against abject poverty and slums. Workers came to Bradford in their thousands, attracted by the prospect of work. German pork butchers from Hohenlohe in south Germany settled in the industrial cities of Great Britain. Their cheap and tasty `take-away' meals were popular with factory workers, who had no time to cook due to long working hours.
Over 95% of today's textile and apparel products are globally sourced, making sourcing one of the most important business functions in the industry. Global Sourcing in the Textile and Apparel Industry,2nd Edition examines this crucial function in the textile and apparel industries, providing practical insight into both how and why global sourcing is pursued. Chapters include step-by-step global sourcing procedures and explore the theoretical, political, economic, social, and environmental implications of global sourcing decisions with an emphasis on sustainability. A real-world approach using current examples and hypothetical company called Amazing Jean helps students see how sourcing tasks are completed in the fashion industry. New to this Edition - New cases studies at the end of each chapter offer real-life scenarios that today's sourcers may face - Emphasis on sustainable implications of global sourcing integrated throughout - Current trade data, agreements, and examples of industry trends throughout the book - Added coverage of trend analysis and forecasting in sourcing (Chapter 5) - Significant updates to the future of global sourcing section, including technology, UN's sustainable development goals, and on- or near-shoring trends (Chapter 12) - 25% new color images - New glossary includes essential terms and definitions from the book Teaching Resources: Instructor's Guide, Test Bank, and PowerPoint presentations available.
The little-known art of Berlin Work was once the most commonly practiced art form among European women. Pictorial Embroidery in England is the first academic study of both pictorial Berlin Work and its precursor, needlepainting, exploring their cultural status in the 18th and 19th centuries. From Enlightenment practices of copying to the development of an industrial aesthetic and the making of the modern amateur, Berlin Work developed as an official knowledge associated with notions of cultural and scientific progress. However, with the advent of the Arts and Crafts movement and modernist aesthetics, Berlin Work was gradually demoted to a craft hobby. Delving into the social, cultural and economic context of English pictorial embroidery, Pictorial Embroidery in England recovers Berlin Work as an art form, and demonstrates how this overlooked practice was once at the centre of cultural life.
Weaving as a subject is an integral part of any textile engineering/technology program, the others being fibre manufacturing, yarn manufacturing and textile chemical processing. This book amalgamates both the compartments (preparatory processes and the loom mechanism) of weaving technology and presents a holistic picture. The machine descriptions are presented from the viewpoint of principles and no attempt has been made to make them exhaustive by incorporating various models or variants. The mathematical relations among various parameters have been derived starting from the first principles and each chapter concludes with solved numerical examples.
International business, especially the export-import trade, is no longer an option, but a necessity for today's apparel industry to grow and generate profits or just to survive in the global marketplace. The decision to export or import is best based on a company or individual entrepreneur's careful and thorough analysis of its internal and external resources and capabilities. "Essentials of Exporting and Importing" provides the merchandising, marketing, or business student a practical, basic guide for importing and exporting products, services, or technology in a global economy."What You Need to Know "sections begin each chapter with a list of learning objectives that establishes a foundation of important concepts explored within the chapter. This helps readers build an industry-specific vocabulary with key terms defined in context within the chapter then bolded and highlighted in the margin--plus a new appendix of industry acronyms.Calling upon the knowledge and expertise of industry professionals and government officials as sources, the authors focus on the policies, procedures, and practices essential for success in the dynamic and expanding field of international trade.The 2nd Edition is fully updated with information on recent changes in U.S. export-import trade policies/procedures, current trade trends, and key trade relationships. Shoemack and Mink Rath expand the discussion of how to identify and enter emerging markets and increase coverage of how global trade issues--such as cultural, political, economic climates--effect the textile and apparel industries.New to this Edition: Quick studies of companies and entrepreneurs highlight chapter content in practice. Examples include: -L'Oreal and MAC: Health and Beauty Aids for Africa -Hall & Madden: Providing Customers with Bespoke Shirts at RTW Prices -Patagonia's Support of Growth and Sustainability
How has the firm of Swaine Adeney Brigg, one of Britain's oldest and most prestigious manufacturers of leather goods and umbrellas, survived for so long? What are the ingredients of its lasting success? This book charts how the company has kept pace with the shifting needs and demands of the marketplace, seizing trading opportunities, for the most part successfully, along the way. Swaine & Adeney began as makers of driving, riding, and hunting whips, becoming whip-makers to the royal family. With the coming of the railways, horse-drawn transport was greatly reduced and demand for whips shifted away from driving accessories to hunting and fashionable riding accessories. As the twentieth century dawned Swaine & Adeney survived the advent of the motor car by applying their leatherworking skills also to the making of luggage. Other equestrian accessory companies were absorbed: J. Kohler & Son, makers of coaching and hunting horns, and G. & J. Zair Ltd, whip-makers of Birmingham. In the dark days of 1943, Thomas Brigg & Sons, London's leading umbrella and walking-stick manufacturers joined forces with Swaine & Adeney, bringing with them their own long and impressive history of craftsmanship and royal patronage. Together, as Swaine Adeney Brigg, they emerged into the post-war era with renewed vigour. The hatters Herbert Johnson and the luggage-making arm of Papworth Industries were later added to the group. Neville Chamberlain, Margot Fonteyn, Augustus John, and Stirling Moss have been among the proud owners of the group's stylish products, and Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones and Peter Sellers as Inspector Clouseau both wore Herbert Johnson hats.
This text is based on the premise that quality is built into any product from conception to delivery to the ultimate consumer. Kadolph, a highly respected authority on textiles, recognizes the specific needs and expectations of a target market and the unique characteristics and interactions inherent in a finished fabric. The information enables students and professionals to determine the quality, specifications, and consistency among products.
The history of Thomas Mellodew and Company Ltd is part of the history of Oldham. For over 100 years, the family owned firm was an important local business and employer, spinning cotton and producing high quality cotton velvet - a material much sought after in Victorian England. This is the fascinating biography of the company and its owners, from its origins in the 1830s until its demise in 1956. Well-known locally, the Mellodews built their Moorside and Parkfield Mills on isolated land at the edge of Oldham, where a close community was established with houses, a church, farms, coal mines, public houses and brickworks. But life for this manufacturing dynasty did not always run smoothly. Though the founders were totally committed to their enterprise, not all their descendants felt the same way. Some saw it merely as a vehicle to fund an extravagant lifestyle; some were guilty of mismanagement; and still others caused more than a whiff of scandal, with rumours of drinking, secret liaisons and breaches of contract. In addition, as for many businesses today, there were difficulties in obtaining bank finance, disputes with a major customer, a takeover approach, the absence of an important director, a 'shareholders' revolt', and upheaval on the board of directors. Discord and tensions were inevitable and this excellent book is admirably candid in its account of events.
Preston was no ordinary town during the nineteenth century. While king cotton reigned supreme throughout Lancashire, the underlying ills associated with this industry were very often highlighted particularly starkly there. Child labour, shocking working conditions with appallingly long hours and pitifully low wages, as well as the constant risk of suffering horrific accidents in the cotton mills, all fostered a deep sense of hostility among the operatives towards the employers. Overcrowded and insanitary housing, disease, poverty and awful wretchedness were often to be witnessed in the fast-growing working-class districts of Preston.Against this backdrop the nascent trade unions and political and social reformers began to challenge the unbridled mastery of the millowners. Trade disputes, confrontations, lockouts, strikes and tragic episodes of violence were the inevitable consequence of this lethal mix of hardship and employer intransigence, and dominated affairs in the town for many years. This book by local author J.S. Leigh is a powerful indictment of the industrial system that caused such suffering to Preston's cotton 'martyrs'.
The moving image has become a key marketing tool for luxury fashion, central in enabling brands to shape their visual codes and extend their brand awareness. Fashion Film is the first detailed study of the shifting shape of fashion imagery in the digital age, investigating the role of the moving image in the promotion, communication and spectacle of contemporary fashion. Combining interdisciplinary analysis of cinema and digital culture, this ground-breaking book traces the emergence of fashion film in the 21st century through its historical roots in pre-digital forms of photography, experimental cinema, mass-media advertising and documentary film-making, right up to today's visual spread of contemporary fashion on video blogs, online magazines and live-streamed catwalk shows. Examining collaborations between fashion designers and pioneering image-makers such as Guy Bourdin, Jean-Paul Goode, William Klein and Nick Knight, the book highlights the critical tension between the fashion film conceived as a creative endeavour and as commercial enterprise. Fashion Film also includes a parallel focus on factual representations of fashion through the recent rise of documentary fashion film that goes behind the scenes to follow the processes and personalities involved in making fashion. Accessible and well-illustrated, Fashion Film will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, film, media, photography, celebrity, sociology and cultural studies.
Optimization and decision making are integral parts of any manufacturing process and management system. The objective of this book is to demonstrate the confluence of theory and applications of various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization techniques with reference to textile manufacturing and management. Divided into twelve chapters, it discusses various multi-criteria decision-making methods such as AHP, TOPSIS, ELECTRE, and optimization techniques like linear programming, fuzzy linear programming, quadratic programming, in textile domain. Multi-objective optimization problems have been dealt with two approaches, namely desirability function and evolutionary algorithm. Key Features Exclusive title covering textiles and soft computing fields including optimization and decision making Discusses concepts of traditional and non-traditional optimization methods with textile examples Explores pertinent single-objective and multi-objective optimizations Provides MATLAB coding in the Appendix to solve various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization problems Includes examples and case studies related to textile engineering and management
Clothing for Children and Teenagers: Anthropometry, Sizing and Fit addresses the complexities of developing size specifications for clothing aimed at seven to seventeen year olds. Children and teenagers experience rapid physical growth and alterations in body shape as they develop-changes that pose significant challenges in creating apparel sizing systems. The book begins by introducing the principles of apparel fit and sizing systems. Drawing on the author's own fieldwork, it goes on to discuss methods of conducting anthropometric surveys in children and teenagers, and techniques for analyzing the resulting data in order to produce successful sizing systems.
Advances in Technical Nonwovens presents the latest information on the nonwovens industry, a dynamic and fast-growing industry with recent technological innovations that are leading to the development of novel end-use applications. The book reviews key developments in technical nonwoven manufacturing, specialist materials, and applications, with Part One covering important developments in materials and manufacturing technologies, including chapters devoted to fibers for technical nonwovens, the use of green recycled and biopolymer materials, and the application of nanofibres. The testing of nonwoven properties and the specialist area of composite nonwovens are also reviewed, with Part Two offering a detailed and wide-ranging overview of the many applications of technical nonwovens that includes chapters on automotive textiles, filtration, energy applications, geo- and agrotextiles, construction, furnishing, packaging and medical and hygiene products.
Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technology and Application in Fashion and Textile Supply Chain highlights the technology of Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) and its applications in fashion and textile manufacturing and supply chain management. It discusses the brief history, technology, and working of RFID including the types of RFID systems. It compares differences, advantages, and disadvantages of RFID and barcode technologies. It also covers application of RFID technology in textile and fashion manufacturing, supply chain, and retail, and RFID-based process control in textile and fashion manufacturing. It covers various applications of RFID starting from fibre manufacturing through yarn and fabric manufacturing; fabric chemical processing; garment manufacturing and quality control; and retail management. It offers case studies of RFID adoption by famous fashion brands detailing the competitive advantages and discusses various challenges faced and future directions of RFID technology.
This book examines knowledge-intensive entrepreneurship (KIE) with a focus on the European textile and apparel industries. The primary purpose is to review the extant academic literature related to the European textile and apparel industries and reflect on that review empirically using a new and robust database on KIE to discover patterns between human capital and strategic entrepreneurial and innovative behavior. According to the Advancing Knowledge-Intensive Entrepreneurship and Innovation for Economic Growth and Social Well-being in Europe (AEGIS) project, KIE is defined as an interface between knowledge generation and diffusion and the productive system. Knowledge-intensive entrepreneurs are thus involved in mechanisms that translate knowledge into innovation, which in turn leads to economic development and growth within an industry and/or region. To date, KIE is often associated with high-tech industries such as aerospace, computer engineering, automotive or telecommunications. For this reason, few studies have been conducted that specifically examine KIE as an avenue for firm or sector growth in the textile and apparel industries. However, new studies have positioned these industries as ones in which KIE can foster growth through innovation, and where products and processes are often evaluated within a knowledge-based framework. Building on this growing literature base, this volume explores potential policies and strategies for driving innovation and growth at the firm and industry levels in Europe and other regions, including the United States.
Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.
When a new technology makes people ill, how high does the body count have to be before protectives steps are taken? This disturbing book tells a dark story of hazardous manufacturing, poisonous materials, environmental abuses, political machinations, and economics trumping safety concerns. It explores the century-long history of "fake silk," or cellulose viscose, used to produce such products as rayon textiles and tires, cellophane, and everyday kitchen sponges. Paul Blanc uncovers the grim history of a product that crippled and even served a death sentence to many industry workers while also releasing toxic carbon disulfide into the environment. Viscose, an innovative and lucrative product first introduced in the early twentieth century, quickly became a multinational corporate enterprise. Blanc investigates industry practices from the beginning through two highly profitable world wars, the midcentury export of hazardous manufacturing to developing countries, and the current "greenwashing" of viscose as an eco-friendly product. Deeply researched and boldly presented, this book brings to light an industrial hazard whose egregious history ranks with those of asbestos, lead, and mercury.
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