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This book highlights the sustainability aspects of textiles and clothing sector in light of nanomaterials and technologies. The invasion of nano in every industrial sector has been important and has made remarkable changes as well as posed new challenges, including the textiles and clothing sector. There is quite a great deal of research happening in terms of nano materials for textiles across the globe, some of which are covered in this book.
Going Global provides a coherent framework for understanding the textiles and apparel industry in the context of the sustainability of supply chain and global sourcing practices. The manufacturing and distribution of textiles and apparel products is a truly global industry, making it crucial that students are aware of the most current political, social and economic developments within the international marketplace. This third edition includes updated discussions of ethics, social justice, and environmental responsibility; trade agreements; and the role and specialization of the world regions and selected countries that are major players in the textile and apparel marketplace. The text examines Europe and the European Union, the Americas and the Caribbean Basin, the Middle East and Africa, and Asia and Oceania with an increased emphasis on China, Vietnam and Bangladesh. New to this Edition - Increased coverage of sourcing with two new chapters: Chapter 7, Selecting Locations for Global Sourcing, and Chapter 8, Selecting Vendors for Global Sourcing - Updated and new case studies in every chapter with added discussion questions to improve critical thinking skills - Updated data in Part 3 for each country discussed, including current info on politics and economic development, trade agreements and statistics, plus sourcing and sustainability issues in each region This current text will help students gain a holistic understand of supply chains and global sourcing concepts and practices. Features - Includes chapter opening Learning Objectives, "Fun Facts", "Global Lexicon glossary with key terms, and end of chapter Learning Activities - Uses Li & Fung's conceptual model of a global supply chain - An emphasis on sustainability in the context of textile and apparel production, distribution and consumption with current and relevant examples - Over 150 photos and and figures, plus an 8-page color insert featuring important maps in vibrant full colorr Introducing Going Global STUDIO--an online tool for more effective study! Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions Teaching Resources: Instructor's Guide, Test Bank, and PowerPoint presentations available. PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501318344.
`An interesting and important account.' Daily Telegraph Have you ever stopped and wondered where your jeans came from? Who made them and where? Ever wondered where they end up after you donate them for recycling? Following a pair of jeans, Clothing Poverty takes the reader on a vivid around-the-world tour to reveal how clothes are manufactured and retailed, bringing to light how fast fashion and clothing recycling are interconnected. Andrew Brooks shows how recycled clothes are traded across continents, uncovers how retailers and international charities are embroiled in commodity chains which perpetuate poverty, and exposes the hidden trade networks which transect the globe. Stitching together rich narratives, from Mozambican markets, Nigerian smugglers and Chinese factories to London's vintage clothing scene, TOMS shoes and Vivienne Westwood's ethical fashion lines, Brooks uncovers the many hidden sides of fashion.
By the late 1810s, a global revolution in cotton had remade the U.S.-Mexico border, bringing wealth and waves of Americans to the Gulf Coast while also devastating the lives and villages of Mexicans in Texas. In response, Mexico threw open its northern territories to American farmers in hopes that cotton could bring prosperity to the region. Thousands of Anglo-Americans poured into Texas, but their insistence that slavery accompany them sparked pitched battles across Mexico. An extraordinary alliance of Anglos and Mexicans in Texas came together to defend slavery against abolitionists in the Mexican government, beginning a series of fights that culminated in the Texas Revolution. In the aftermath, Anglo-Americans rebuilt the Texas borderlands into the most unlikely creation: the first fully committed slaveholders' republic in North America. Seeds of Empire tells the remarkable story of how the cotton revolution of the early nineteenth century transformed northeastern Mexico into the western edge of the United States, and how the rise and spectacular collapse of the Republic of Texas as a nation built on cotton and slavery proved to be a blueprint for the Confederacy of the 1860s.
Consumers spend approximately $93 billion on denim products every year. This consumption comes at a great cost, with thousands of litres of fresh water, hazardous chemicals and energy contributing to just one pair of jeans, leaving the environment and the industry vulnerable to pollution and climate change. Using facts, figures, case studies and anecdotes, this book investigates why the industry has been so slow to adopt green technologies and offers practical solutions to designers and fashion executives who want to switch to cleaner manufacturing, including those working in the `fast fashion' sector. It also offers advice to the eco-conscious consumer who wants to purchase denim more sustainably. Considering the full lifecycle of a pair of jeans from the cotton crop to disposal, it presents examples of how to go green at different stages. This book will be of great interest to fashion students and researchers, as well as designers, fashion executives, policy-makers and anyone who comes into contact with the world of denim.
By World War I, the Northwestern Knitting Company was the largest workplace for gainfully employed women in Minnesota and the largest garment factory in the United States. Lars Olsson investigates the interplay of class, gender, marital status, ethnicity, and race in the labor relations at the factory, illuminating the lives of the women who worked there. Representing thirty nationalities, particularly Scandinavian, the women worked long hours for low pay in roles that were strictly divided along ethnic and gendered lines, while the company directors and stockholders made enormous profits off of their labor. Management developed paternal strategies to bind the workers to the company and preempt unionization, including bonus programs, minstrel shows, and a pioneering industrial welfare program. With the US entry into the war, the company was contracted to produce underwear for soldiers, and management expanded the metaphor of "the Munsingwear Family" to construct not just company loyalty, but national loyalty. This book sheds new light on women's labor in WWI and the lives of textile workers in the United States.
Oh, Men, with Sisters dear! Oh, Men, with Mothers and Wives! It is not linen you re wearing out, But human creatures lives! Stitch stitch stitch, In poverty, hunger and dirt, Sewing at once, with a double thread, A Shroud as well as a Shirt. --from The Song of the Shirt by Thomas Hood (1843) Labour in Bangladesh flows like its rivers -- in excess of what is required. Often, both take a huge toll. Labour that costs $1.66 an hour in China and 52 cents in India can be had for a song in Bangladesh -- 18 cents. It is mostly women and children working in fragile, flammable buildings who bring in 70 per cent of the country s foreign exchange. Bangladesh today does not clothe the nakedness of the world, but provides it with limitless cheap garments -- through Primark, Walmart, Benetton, Gap. In elegiac prose, Jeremy Seabrook dwells upon the disproportionate sacrifices demanded by the manufacture of such throwaway items as baseball caps. He shows us how Bengal and Lancashire offer mirror images of impoverishment and affluence. In the eighteenth century, the people of Bengal were dispossessed of ancient skills and the workers of Lancashire forced into labour settlements.In a ghostly replay of traffic in the other direction, the decline of the British textile industry coincided with Bangladesh becoming one of the world s major clothing exporters. With capital becoming more protean than ever, it wouldn t be long before the global imperium readies to shift its sites of exploitation in its nomadic cultivation of profit.
This book aims to provide a broad conceptual and theoretical perspective of apparel manufacturing process starting from raw material selection to packaging and dispatch of goods. Further, engineering practices followed in an apparel industry for production planning and control, line balancing, implementation of industrial engineering concepts in apparel manufacturing, merchandising activities and garment costing have been included, and they will serve as a foundation for future apparel professionals. The book addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process with considered quality aspects. This book also covers the production planning process and production balancing activities. It addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process and quality aspects to be considered in each process. Garment engineering questions each process/operation of the total work content and can reduce the work content and increase profitability by using innovative methods of construction and technology. This book covers the production planning process, production balancing activities, and application of industrial engineering concepts in garment engineering. Further, the merchandising activities and garment costing procedures will deal with some practical examples. This book is primarily intended for textile technology and fashion technology students in universities and colleges, researchers, industrialists and academicians, as well as professionals in the apparel and textile industry.
Cotton made the fortune of the Fuda family, Egyptian landed gentry
with peasant origins, during the second part of the nineteenth
century. This story, narrated and photographed by a family member
who has researched and documented various aspects of her own
history, goes well beyond the family photo album to become an
attempt to convey how cotton, as the main catalyst and creator of
wealth, produced by the beginning of the twentieth century two
entirely separate worlds: one privileged and free, the other
surviving at a level of bare subsistence, and indentured.
Fast fashion is an industrial trend that refers to the concept of shortening lead time (production, distribution) and offering new products to the market as fast as possible. Despite an abundance of research results, there is no comprehensive reference source that covers the state-of-the-art findings on both theoretical modeling and empirical research on fast fashion systems. This edited volume consists of three sections - review and exploratory studies, analytical models, and empirical research - made up of many interesting contributions in the respective domain. The result is a well-balanced handbook which includes both theoretical results (from various perspectives) and empirical findings. This volume will be of interest not only to those involved in the fashion industry, but also to academics and practitioners in the wider fields of business, manufacturing engineering, systems engineering and supply chain management.
This book is about people who worked in the rag trade in the nineteenth century - dressmakers and milliners, tailors, two shoemakers, a framework knitter, a family of corset manufacturers and a lace maker. It deals with the trades and their products, but also with the day-to-day lives of the protagonists, both at work and at home. Working people have always made up the majority of the population and their biographies can be just as complex and interesting as those of the rich and famous. Featuring biographies of eleven different nineteenth-century clothing workers, Pam Inder explores a range of workers with a variety of backgrounds who worked for different sorts of clientele and did a variety of jobs. They have been chosen because records survive to illuminate their lives, but also because they have a story to tell. They are not necessarily typical, but nor are they atypical; aspects of their lives reflect experiences shared by many others in the same lines of work - be it difficult clients, financial problems, trouble with the law or the effects of grinding poverty. Some were successful, others were not - the dividing line between the two was a narrow one and often depended on luck as much as on judgement.
Vivien Teasdale's concise and informative guide to the textile industry will be absorbing reading for anyone who wants to learn about its history or to research the career of an ancestor who was a textile worker.
In a clear and accessible way she takes readers through the technical, economic and social aspects of the story. She gives a graphic account of the extraordinary growth of the industry in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and of its decline in the twentieth. In the process she covers the themes and issues that family and local historians will need to understand in order to pursue their research.
She describes the inventions that transformed the manufacture of cloth - the flying shuttle, the spinning jenny, the power loom - but she also gives a keen insight into working life in the factories and into the close-knit communities that grew up around them. And she introduces the reader to the variety of national and local records that are available for genealogical research - from census returns, websites and publications to company records and registers, regional archives and museums and the many other resources that can yield fascinating information about the industry and those who worked in it.
..".examines each industry ...will take you beyond the usual genealogical records into sources specific to the textile industry. "FGS Forum, 02/2012
Lancashire was once the Cotton Capital of the world. Raw cotton came in to Liverpool docks and was sold on the Exchange. In the beginning, it was then transported to cottages all over the county where whole families, including the children, would clean, card, spin and weave it. The finished cloth was then sold on the Manchester Exchange. With the coming of the Industrial Revolution new machines saw the work transferred from home to factory. It was said that Lancashire could produce enough cotton before breakfast to supply the UK market, with the remainder of the day's supply going overseas. Read the first hand accounts from local people, and look at the remarkable collection of contemporary photographs.
Sir Titus Salt built a mill and village in 1853 that continues to be named after him. Already a successful worsted manufacturer in Bradford, his decision to build a huge `vertical' mill commenced a pattern of intertwined fortunes between Salt's Mill and Saltaire's residents, one that has continued. It housed all processes from treating raw wool to finishing quality worsted materials, alongside houses and community amenities for his workers. Ownership of Salts Mill initially passed to Salt's fifth son but went into voluntary administration in 1892. The mill was rescued and prospered under the ownership of Sir James Roberts until 1918, when family and business tragedies resulted in his sale of Salts Mill to a consortium of Bradford businessmen. During lean times for the textile trade in the 1920s, the private company of Salts Mill was floated as a public company and success returned to the mill. This led to record dividends in 1956, resulting in a dramatic take over by Illingworth, Morris - a company founded by the Ostrer family, who grew a global, multi-national textile company, retaining their headquarters at Salts Mill until textile production ceased. The twists, turns and dramas at Salts Mill are recounted in this book.
During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries large numbers of Scots emigrated to seek their fortunes around the world. Better educated than the English and with a strong Presbyterian ethic, they were unusually successful in business and politics. This was true for New Zealand as elsewhere. Two contrasting characters -- Caithness-born John Ross and Robert Glendining from Dumfries -- founded Ross & Glendining Ltd in Dunedin in 1862, during the gold rush. At one stage the country's largest manufacturer and home of many popular brands, R&G was initially a drapery importing business, which opened branches throughout New Zealand and warehouses in all the main centres. Careful management and efficient systems enabled the business to grow, despite strong competition from Australia. After the investment boom of the seventies, it diversified, investing in sheep runs, a woollen mill, other manufacturing, and even a coal mine. This history offers a portrait of a firm over a hundred-year period -- its growth, decline an
During the first two decades of the twentieth century, demand for raw cotton in Europe, Asia, and America outstripped production as African Americans migrated away from Southern cotton fields. Consequently, industrialists in Europe turned to Africa for new sources of cotton. This volume documents the efforts by British financiers and colonial officials, along with some African-American allies, to bring the American model of cotton production to colonial Africa. In a narrative featuring a host of characters -- including British entrepreneurs, African kings, and African-American scientists -- author Jonathan Robins weaves together events in Africa, Britain, and the American South. Robins chronicles the origins, failings, and eventual evolution of Britain's colonial cotton project, revealing the global forces and actors that moved and transformed the international cotton industry. Jonathan E. Robins is assistant professor of global history at Michigan Technological University.
This book examines in detail key aspects of sustainability in the textile industry, especially environmental, social and economic sustainability in the textiles and clothing sector. It highlights the various faces and facets of sustainability and their implications for textiles and the clothing sector.
This book highlights the traditional boundaries of the textile industry and discusses to what extent organic cotton is sustainable. It also examines the domestic and international influences of agricultural practices on cotton. Sustainability issues in the textile and fashion sectors require the influences that arise from beyond the boundaries of the conventional textile industry to be taken into account. These "external" influences-from (international or domestic) agricultural practices and energy policies to consumption patterns and levels of ecological notions of the society-have a significant impact on the sustainability of the textile and fashion sectors as a whole. Ecological and social concerns go far beyond individual companies and industries; therefore, in order to become more sustainable, the textile (and fashion) industry needs to address these concerns appropriately and connect with other disciplines, industries, communities, and international groups.
The rivalry for trade in tea and textiles between the English and Dutch East India companies is very much a global history. This trade is strongly connected to emblematic events such as the opening of Western trade with China, the Boston Tea Party, the establishment of British Empire in Bengal and the Industrial Revolution.
Apparel Merchandising: The Line Starts Here analyzes the evolution and development of the merchandising function in branded apparel companies and retail private label apparel. It describes today's challenges for both apparel manufacturers and retailers in meeting the consumer's demands for the right products at the right prices - and at the right times. Approached from the perspective of the apparel product manager, Rosenau and Wilson cover men's and women's sportswear and activewear and children's wear in both domestic and international markets. The text follows the evolution of the merchandising function with emphasis on product development and production efficiency, highlighting the philosophies of industry executives and the effective integration of the merchandising, marketing, and manufacturing functions along the way. The third edition emphasizes the increased importance of retailer's private brands, explores how companies apply technology to all facets of product development and supply chain management, and addresses the impact of social media on both retailers and apparel manufacturers.
A fascinating and accessible history of textiles, including the key personalities and inventions which revolutionised the industry, together with the East End workshops and the creation of artificial materials such as rayon. Textile expert, Fiona McDonald, includes tips on the care and repair of materials and advice on what's worth collecting and the best materials to wear, as well as safe cleaning, tips on collecting. As well as a handy glossary of textile terms, there is an A-Z of different textiles, full of interesting facts - did you know that velvet was originally made from silk and its name derives from the Latin word, vellus, meaning fleece or that cabbage was the term used in the rag trade to refer to the extra outfits clever cutters created and sold off the books by careful placement of the pattern. A fascinating and often surprising subject area explored at an accessible but informative level.Did you know?Peau de Soie is a heavy satin which was used for wedding dresses at the turn of the last century. The word satin is derived from Zaytoun, an area of China where it was first madeWe have lost many evocative names for colours over the years, including bouffon (darker than eau de nil) cendre de rose (grey with pink nuances), dust of Paris (ecru), esterhazy (silver-grey), fly's wing (graphite) and terre d'Egypt (rust)
Fashion today is fast-paced, technologically savvy, and global-and this fourth edition of The Dynamics of Fashion has been updated to be on the cutting edge. Featuring the latest facts and figures, and the most current theories in fashion development, production, and merchandising, this book provides a broad foundation for students hoping to become a part of the industry. Apparel, accessories, cosmetics, home fashions, green design, and more are explored in detail. Hundreds of examples make the business aspect fun. Fresh, forward, challenging, and comprehensive, Elaine Stone's classic text is for those in fashion who want to be both in the now and in the know. New to This Edition: - More than 150 new full-color photographs highlighting the people, principles, practices, and techniques of the fashion business - Updated coverage of the latest industry trends, including developments in sustainability, e-commerce, and the use of social media for fashion marketing - Revised charts and illustrations with up-to-date data - Updated glossary with more than 500 industry terms New content and illustrative examples within the following features: - Fashion Focus reports on the interesting people and events that are influencing fashion right now - Then and Now highlights the cyclical nature of fashion as seen through yesterday's classics and today's emerging trends Introducing The Dynamics of Fashion STUDIO--an online tool for more effective study! ~Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips ~Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions and image identification ~Branch out with links to curated online multi-media resources that bring chapter concepts to life ~Expand your knowledge by further exploring special features Then and Now and Fashion Focus This bundle includes The Dynamics of Fashion 4th Edition and The Dynamics of Fashion STUDIO Access Card.
The textile manufacturing industry (NAfICS 313) has played an important role in the history of the United States and continues to be a major industrial employer, not only in the US, but also around the world. Textiles are mainly considered a component part of the supply chain, with end uses ranging from apparel to home textiles to industrial goods to medical textiles. Even though apparel is the largest end use of textiles and has increasingly moved offshore to low-cost labor countries, there remains a growing textile manufacturing industry in the US for capital and technology-intensive products, such as nonwovens and those with military end uses.
Broken Promises of Globalization: The Case of the Bangladesh Garment Industry analyzes the consequences of the latest wave of globalization within the context of the Bangladesh garment industry's integration into world markets and production chains. Shahidur Rahman has found that although globalization has created opportunities, the process of globalization has also triggered a deformed development leaving Bangladesh increasingly vulnerable to shifts and tensions within the world trading regime. Bangladesh s vulnerability, experienced as a constraining framework by all the major actors in dependent industrialization, is of particular importance to the progress both of workers and of Bangladesh s industrializing modernizers in the garment industry. This book intends to respond to three questions. First, has the garment industry been able to counteract the vulnerability that women garment workers had experienced in their villages? Second, is the formation of a welfare committee a substitute model for unions when it comes to protecting women s rights? Finally, how is a Least Developing Country dealing with both domestic and external pressures in its response to globalization? Rahman argues that in spite of the opportunities created by the growth of the garment industry, the key actors such as workers, entrepreneurs, unions, and even the government have become vulnerable in the process of the global integration of this industry. This is an ethnographic study that tells the story of the rise, growth, and demise of a Bangladeshi garment company. From a broader approach, an internal force such as the government of Bangladesh is not alone in being responsible for pushing the workers into a vulnerable position; external pressure on the state is also responsible for intensifying the vulnerability of Bangladeshi institutions and actors. Broken Promises of Globalization exposes the crisis Bangladeshi garment companies face as a result of the momentous pressures emanating from the regime of neo-liberal globalization. This ethnographic study, exploring a wide range of contemporary and recent development issues, holds particular relevance for students and scholars of sociology, political science, political economics, labor, and development studies.
Complex raw materials and manufacturing processes mean the textile
industry is particularly dependent on good process control to
produce high and consistent product quality. Monitoring and
controlling process variables during the textile manufacturing
process also minimises waste, costs and environmental impact.
Process control in textile manufacturing provides an important
overview of the fundamentals and applications of process control
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