From A Paris Garret (Paperback)

Sy RICHARD LE GALLIENNE fftth an Introduction by CHARLES HANSON TOWNE NEW YORE 4 JJ MCMXXXVI IVES WASHBURN PUBLISHER First printing Lpril Second printing To WILLIAM T. DEWART TO WHOM I OWE THE OPPORTUNITY OF WRITING THE FOLLOWING IMPRESSIONS OF THE PARIS WE BOTH LOVE WITH ADMIRATION AND LONG FRIENDSHIP PREFACE THIS book has no settled plan. It is just a book to dip about in, to open anywhere you please. Obviously, it is not for the sophisticated lover o Paris nor, on the other hand, is it a guide-book for the innocent abroad though it is perhaps rather among such innocents that the writer would class him self. That is, he is of those for whom to live in Paris is a form of romance, something like living in Bagdad or Samarkand. For, Paris, while it is the capital of France, is still more the capital of dreamland. It is a symbolic city, a city not merely made with hands. It is a city where one can live ones everyday life more humanly, more entertainingly, than in any other. But it is more than that. The Holy Roman Emperor Charles V declared that Paris is not merely a city. It is a world in itself. It is the masterpiece of the created spirit of humanity through the ages. It is a city with a universal, his toric soul, To live in Paris is not merely to live in onc s particular day and generation, but to live with a feeling of living too in the exhilarating atmosphere of an ever-present, still animate and animating, Past. So much of the significant history of mankind has been made there, so many of its dreams have been dreamed there, so many men and women who lived greatly, beautifully, terribly, or amusingly, have been its citizens. Also, Paris is the creation of so many great writers andartists. It is a city that, before we set foot in it, we have vii PREFACE already lived in through books. It is, therefore, only imper fectly inhabited by those who merely eat and sleep, and work and play there, those whose Irves are not lived in the imagina tion as well. For Paris is above all a city of the imagination, and, if one has any imagination to appeal to, Paris cannot fail to appeal to it. It is for such readers that I have written the following desultory impressions of its varied life, past and present. R. LE G. vm CONTENTS PAGE MY GARRET MEMORIES OF MY GARRET 4 A FIRST DAY IN PARIS 8 LA VIE DE BOHEME i A THE SACRED SOIL OF FRANCE 18 THE FRENCH CHARACTER 22 A HAUNTED TABLE 25 A FANTASTIC GOURMET AND LITTLE RESTAURANTS . . 29 RESTAURANT OF LA PETITE CHAISE 34 BRILLAT-SAVARIN IN AMERICA 36 THE RUE DES SAINTS-PERES AND OLD BOOKSHOPS . . 43 A TOOL OF GOD 46 PARIS STREET NAMES 50 ANGLO-SAXON MISCONCEPTIONS OF THE FRENCH . . 59 AN AMERICAN LOVER OF THE VICTORY . 61 FRENCH WORKMEN 64 G, A. SALA ON PARIS 68 SPRING AND THE QUAIS 72 FRENCH LOVE OF ANIMALS 75 THE LATIN QUARTER ........ 78 PARIS IN REVOLUTION AS SEEN BY A DOCTOR . 81 THE MARTYRS OF LES CARMES 85 THE PARIS CONCIERGE 89 THE VITALITY OF THE SAINTS IN FRANCE .... 92 ix CONTENTS FRENCH HOME LIFE 95 IN A SIGHTSEEING CAR 99 IN THE HAUNTS OF FRANCOIS VILLON 103 ETIENNE DOLET, AND THE MARKET OF CIGARETTE ENDS 107 THE OBSERVATOIRE A CLOISTER OF ASTRONOMERS . 112 THE PONT-NEUF 115 THE MUMMY OF THAIS 119 PARIS STREET CRIES 122 THE MUSEE DE CLUNY 126 DRINKING IN FRANCE 130 SPRING IN PARIS THE FOIRE SAINT-GERMAIN ., 133 THE FOIRE DU PORC 138 FRENCH SERVANTS 141 FRENCH COOKS AND THE SCIENCE OF EATING . . - 147 BUCKWHEAT CAKES, DR.GUILLOTIN, AND THE COUR DU COMMERCE . . . . . . ., 150 A STREET OF ROTISSERIES AND OTHERS . . . . 155 THE STATUE OF HENRI QUATRE 159 COUNTRY TOUCHES IN PARIS BEES AND GOATS ... 162 THE HOTEL DE SENS 165 THE ABSURDITY OF BEING FRENCH 168 ON BUTCHERS AND NATIONAL TASTES IN KILLING . .171 FRENCH SALESMANSHIP 175 THE PARC MONCEAU AND FRENCH BABIF. S, . 178 A STUDIO BEHIND NOTRE-DAMB ...... 182 AN OPEN-AIR SALON .186 AN OLD GARDEN AND THE RUE VISCONTI . ., 189 THE RUE JACOB AND STERNES GLOVESHOP . . . 194 STRE3BT AND OTHERS 18 CONTENTS o THE SORBONNE ............