This historic book may have numerous typos, missing text or index. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. 1912. Not illustrated. Excerpt: ... to one gallon of water. This will give a hard surface, over which the new calcimine will slip nicely. Calcimine Drying With Laps.--The best thing to do is to wash it all off clean, then re-calcimine, observing rules laid down under head of Calcimining. If you do not want to remove the coating, try a size of alum, and coat over that. Possibly it will turn out a fair to good job, but if not, then you will have the more of a job cleaning off. Treating Fire Cracks.--Mix plaster and whiting and glue size, and brush this into the cracks. Or two coats of equal parts of turpentine and japan, and when dry give it a coat of flat lead, thin. Or beeswax thinned with turpentine, followed by a coat of flat lead color. Iron Rust Stains.--Shellac is useful on an iron surface that causes rust through the calcimine. Lead paint, thinned with equal parts of raw oil and turpentine. An iron surface that is to be calcimined should be made clean either with the sand blast or wire brushes, to remove roughness and possible rust. Metal preservative, made by some paint makers, is good. Fine Cracks in Ceiling.--These may be filled as advised for fire cracks, fine cracks being same kind, only not as fine. A very bad ceiling had better be papered before calcimining. Cracked, Rough and Hot Ceiling.--It is better to line such a surface with lining paper. The roughest and most badly cracked ceiling, filling the largest cracks and smoothing down the worst roughness, will look comparitively smooth when papered and calcimined. Lath Showing Through.--A varnish size is indicated for this defect. The lath show by dark surface corresponding to the size of the lath, the surrounding surface being lighter. Prof. Hall, of Harvard, explains this appearance thus: Air moving at the rate of live feet a second ...